"Bye Bye Mother offers climbers a dependable 5.7 trad corner splitter framed by the quiet woods of Sun Worshipper Wall. This single-pitch route provides solid rock and varied crack widths, making it a practical training ground for gear placement and trad climbing technique."
On the rugged face of Sun Worshipper Wall, 'Bye Bye Mother' stands out as a straightforward yet rewarding traditional climb that invites both novice and seasoned climbers to refine their crack and gear-placement skills in a genuine outdoor setting. Located at Devil's Glen within Ontario South Bouldering and Rock, this route offers a focused single-pitch ascent, set against the backdrop of cool northern woods and granite that demands respect and attention.
Approaching the climb, you’ll find yourself just right of the well-known route Helios~ and near the distinct grouping of three mature trees that mark its proximity. The corner splitter lies just to the left of this natural marker and adjacent to Peach Sparrow, an established route. Holding steady to these visual cues prevents unnecessary wandering and streamlines your setup.
The rock here is solid, the edges clean, and the corner itself offers an accessible line for learners aiming to build confidence on bigger gear placements. While the route is classified as 5.7, it holds plenty of subtle challenges that keep your focus sharp—balancing smooth footwork with controlled gear insertion. The variety of crack widths lets you practice everything from finger jams to wider cams, reinforcing essential skills under real conditions without pushing into overly bold territory.
The area carries a quiet serenity, interrupted only by the occasional rustling of leaves and bird calls overhead, which makes for a grounding experience. While rated on the modest side, the climb's nature encourages thoughtful movement and a steady mind. Its relatively low-angle corner and good natural features remove much of the usual anxiety tied to protection, with gear placements rated as reliable and approachable.
Given the single pitch and moderate length, this route doesn’t demand a steep or exhausting approach. The surrounding forest floor provides comfortable footing when setting up or during breaks. It's an ideal option for those looking to sharpen trad proficiency or warm up for more demanding climbs in the area.
Gear-wise, traditional protection is essential. Expect to use a range of cams and nuts to cover the corner’s width transitions effectively. The rock quality allows for confident placements, but climbers should still assess each placement carefully, as some spots require extra attention to ensure stability. This route serves as a practical playground for learning gear judgement and placement technique.
Outside of climbing, Devil's Glen offers a calm escape just a short drive from urban centers in Ontario. The moderate traffic ensures the area feels remote enough to enjoy nature’s quiet persistence while still remaining accessible. Visiting during spring and early fall provides the best conditions—avoiding summer’s humidity and winter’s frozen stone.
Altogether, Bye Bye Mother is a durable and inviting trad climb that blends safety with skill-building opportunities. It asks for measured effort and sharp eyes but rewards you with solid movement and the quiet pulse of tall trees, granite corners, and clear skies. Perfect for sharpening trad basics or adding a relaxed yet technical climb to your Ontario rock portfolio.
Though generally safe, always double-check gear placements on this route, especially in the wider sections of the corner. The rock is solid, but a cautious approach to protection ensures confidence and security on lead. Approach with care on wet or slippery terrain around the base, especially after rain.
Look for the distinctive trio of large trees near the route for easy identification.
Plan climbs for spring or early fall to avoid heat and humidity.
Bring a rack with medium to large cams to protect wider sections of the corner.
Ensure you have sturdy, broken-in climbing shoes for precise foot jams.
Trad gear is required for this route, with a range of cams and nuts recommended to negotiate the corner’s variable crack widths effectively. Protection placements are generally reliable but benefit from careful gear selection and assessment.
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