"Buzz Worthy delivers a clean, 60-foot sport climb anchored by a commanding flake and a subtly challenging face. Perfect for climbers refining their technique, it blends technical moves with reliable bolting in the quieter corners of Angeles National Forest."
Buzz Worthy offers an accessible yet engaging sport climb that grabs your attention immediately from the base of a massive flake perched just right of a prominent crack. As you start, your hands lock into the flake’s edge, inviting a rhythmic layback that puts your technique front and center. The route demands balance and precision, with well-spaced pockets and subtle features on either side keeping you hooked as you ascend. Around the third bolt, the climb veers left onto the flake, a place where you manage your body tension carefully to avoid the slippery guano coating—a reminder this rock sees its share of local wildlife. Moving up, the wall opens to a face peppered with holds that reward measured movements and careful route reading, urging you slightly right and upwards toward a secure set of anchors.
Located in the Angeles National Forest, just beyond the hustle of North Dallas 40, this climb provides a quick, rewarding sport experience without the crowds or steep approaches of Southern California’s more famous test pieces. At just 60 feet, it fits perfectly into a half-day outing or as a warm-up before tackling other lines in the area. The face offers enough variation to keep both beginners stepping into lead climbing and more seasoned climbers interested in refining their footwork and balance.
Approaching Buzz Worthy means navigating the terrain of Texas Canyon, where the trail is firm but can be littered with loose debris near the base. A light pack, sturdy climbing shoes, and a 70-meter rope will set you up well. The climb’s six-bolt anchor system with a Mussy Hook provides dependable protection, though the route’s subtlety means staying alert to gear placement and clipping efficiency.
The rock itself holds up well, though the guano-dusted sections warn for deliberate hand placements and trust in your foot holds. Morning climbs here catch the wall in gentle sun, avoiding the midday heat typical of the Los Angeles Basin. Early fall through spring are prime seasons for this route, offering stable weather and manageable temperatures.
When your lead is secured, rappelling down is straightforward from the anchors, avoiding any tricky spots or loose rock on the descent. The forest backdrop, combined with occasional breezes weaving through the canyon, keeps the climb fresh, a small but rewarding escape for anyone eager to experience Angeles National Forest’s approachable sport climbs.
The guano-covered flake can be slippery and demands caution—avoid relying on it for key moves. Loose rock near the base warrants attentive footing during approach and descent.
Start early to climb in cooler morning sun and avoid the afternoon heat.
Watch for guano patches on the flake—avoid placing hands directly on these sections.
Bring quickdraws for all six bolts plus an extra sling for anchor backup.
Approach trail can be loose; wear sturdy shoes and watch your step.
Six bolts provide solid protection along the line, capped with a Mussy Hook anchor that simplifies your rappel setup. Wear shoes with good edging capabilities to manage the layback and face holds effectively.
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