Butterfingers stands as a compelling 65-foot trad climb tucked within the rugged contours of Mount Nemo’s Big Gulp sector. Starting at marker #49, this route invites climbers into a dynamic dance of technique and terrain. The approach leads you into an evolving landscape where stone changes rhythm, guiding you toward a right-facing corner crowned by an incipient crack. The climb demands focus and finesse as you ascend through the crack’s tight embrace, culminating at a roof that tests your upper-body strength and footwork. Pulling through this roof is a satisfying crux, followed by a fixed wrap station that marks a clear endpoint.

For those seeking variation, a slightly softer 5.6 alternative offers a graceful shift to the left, beginning at the arching left-facing corner just beside the primary crack. This route folds back toward the right at the halfway point, requiring a deliberate traverse along the incipient crack to gain a ledge before finishing at the secure wrap station. Both variations provide engaging, hands-on climbing that rewards precision and steady breathing.

The rock itself is classic Ontario limestone—solid but with textured features that demand careful placement and mindful movement. Protection is strictly traditional: be ready to trust your gear placements in cracks that vary in size and angles; no fixed bolts grace the line except for the clear wrap station top-out.

Mount Nemo’s Big Gulp offers more than just the route; the setting paints a picture of broad, sweeping views across the Golden Horseshoe region. The approach trail is moderate, weaving through mixed forest and open ledges, placing you in touch with the rugged character of this local climbing gem. Timing your ascent is best aimed for spring through fall when temperatures are moderate, and rock warmth offers good friction without the baking heat of summer.

This climb suits intermediate climbers ready to stretch their trad skills with a mix of crack climbing and roof maneuvers. It pushes your technique without overwhelming, making it approachable for those new to sustained crack lines but rewarding enough to hold the interest of regular Ontario climbers.

Gear up with a basic trad rack focusing on medium to small cams and nuts; be prepared for occasional tricky placements in the converging cracks. Footwear should be sticky and precise, ideal for smearing and edging on limestone. Hydration is key; the nearby trail offers spots for filling water, but carrying enough for the round trip is critical. Don’t rush the movement through the roof—the power move demands calm, focused energy.

As you descend, the fixed wrap station provides a straightforward rappel; double-check ropes and anchors before committing. Watch your step on the ledge sections during descent for loose stone and slick surfaces, especially if rain has fallen recently.

Butterfingers offers an engaging trad experience that balances adventure with practical climbing challenges. Whether you tackle the direct 5.9 line or the more flowing 5.6 variation, the route rewards effort with tangible accomplishment and a connection to Ontario’s rich, hands-on climbing heritage.