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Buttercup: A Crisp Sport Climb on Crystal Wall's North Face

Fort Collins, Colorado United States
sport climbing
single pitch
technical moves
good protection
moderate exposure
Length: 50 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Buttercup
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Buttercup stands out as a clean, technical 50-foot sport route on Crystal Wall’s North Face, offering intermediate climbers a balanced challenge with solid protection and inviting moves. Set just off the yellow lichen line, this climb pulses with steady precision and alpine atmosphere."

Buttercup: A Crisp Sport Climb on Crystal Wall's North Face

Buttercup presents a focused and accessible outing on the North Face of Crystal Wall, tucked into the rugged landscape of Poudre Canyon near Fort Collins, Colorado. This one-pitch, 50-foot climb moves with a steady rhythm along six bolts that guard its carefully chosen line. From the base, just behind a lone evergreen that marks your starting point, the route invites climbers to engage with the rock’s subtle features—especially a stretch just left of the distinctive yellow lichen that provides a reliable visual guide. Although technically a notch above the nearby Gates of Crystal, Buttercup balances modest difficulty with a touch of precision, making it a practical choice for climbers seeking to sharpen their sport climbing skills without wrestling with overwhelming technicality or length.

The rock here feels alive under your fingertips: textured and grippy, it demands attention to foot placement and fluid movement. The route’s exposure is comfortably moderate—enough to feel the canyon’s open energy without toppling into anxiety. Protection is well-spaced but generous; six bolts keep the runouts in check, and ring anchors atop the big ledge offer a secure finish to unwind and enjoy the views. The climb rewards solid technique more than brute force, ideal for intermediate climbers refining balance and body positioning.

Access is straightforward, with a short approach from trailheads near Fort Collins. The canyon’s forested edges funnel you toward the rock, the faint trail weaving through evergreens that seem to watch silently as you ascend. Timing your climb for morning or late afternoon moves offers relief from midday heat, with dappled sunlight shifting across the North Face.

Buttercup's appeal lies in its blend of approachable difficulty, neat protection, and a setting that echoes Colorado’s rugged alpine charm without demanding marathon efforts. Whether you’re stepping up from beginner climbs or tuning your technique before aiming higher, Buckle up for Buttercup and let it deliver a clear, concise taste of climbing on Crystal Wall.

Climber Safety

Despite solid bolting, pay close attention to the initial moves clipped from the ground to avoid any ground fall potential. The rock is generally sound, but always watch for loose debris near the ledge. Approach in stable weather to reduce rockfall risk common in the canyon’s narrow corridors.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length50 feet

Local Tips

Start behind the large evergreen just up and left of Gates of Crystal for easy access.

Clip the first bolt from the ground to protect both climber and belayer early on.

Morning or late afternoon climbs offer better shade and cooler temperatures.

Wear shoes with precise edging to navigate the technical stretches near the yellow lichen.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating is honest but leans towards the stiffer end due to technical footwork and subtle moves rather than pure power. While it shares difficulty with Gates of Crystal, Buttercup demands more precise body positioning and offers a slightly more involved crux sequence, rewarding climbers comfortable on vertical technical terrain.

Gear Requirements

Equipped with 6 well-placed bolts and solid ring anchors at the top, Buttercup provides secure, straightforward protection; climbers should bring a single rack as additional gear isn’t necessary.

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Tags

sport climbing
single pitch
technical moves
good protection
moderate exposure