HomeClimbingButch the Bitch

Butch the Bitch: A Steep Off-Width Challenge in the San Bernardino Mountains

Big Bear Lake, California United States
off-width
crack climbing
single pitch
trad
California
San Bernardino Mountains
Length: 70 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Butch the Bitch
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Butch the Bitch is a gritty single-pitch trad climb on a fractured crack that culminates in a demanding off-width finish. Offering a solid test of technique and strength with a rewarding ledge top-out, it’s a must for climbers eyeing a tough but accessible challenge in California’s San Bernardino Mountains."

Butch the Bitch: A Steep Off-Width Challenge in the San Bernardino Mountains

Situated on the rugged south face of Pinnacle with a View within California’s San Bernardino Mountains, Butch the Bitch stakes its claim as a demanding, grit-lined trad route that pushes climbers onto a rarefied off-width finish. This climb follows the fractured crack line to the right of a distinctive roof, offering a tangible test of both technique and mental grit. The route’s one pitch unwinds over 70 feet of rock that transitions from more moderate crack climbing to a steep, physical off-width near the top, where the real challenge awaits. As you ascend, the rock’s grainy texture boots up your tactile senses; finger jams lead into open hands, but it’s the final sustained bulge where you grapple with the full force of the off-width’s embrace. That section demands commitment—tight body positioning and strategic gear placements are key to mastering this finish.

The climb caps off on a spacious ledge, which doubles as an anchor station shared with Under the Influence, an adjacent and markedly harder 5.12c route. This spot also serves as a welcome breath—a place to soak in the wild views over Big Bear Lake to the north and appreciate the silent watch of the San Bernardino peaks stretching in all directions. The sense of exposure is genuine but measured, rewarding climbers with a feeling of accomplishment balanced by tangible connection to the mountain.

Gear-wise, this route calls for a selection of smaller cams up to a 4-inch size. The protection placements along the line are varied but can become tricky, especially as you approach the off-width crux. Solid gear knowledge and the confidence to place pro in less obvious cracks will ensure your safety on this rock face. Given the generally stable rock and moderate crowd levels—voted by a niche but dedicated local contingent with an average 2.5-star rating—Butch the Bitch is a route for climbers who prefer authentic, rugged trad lines that reward persistence.

Approaching Pinnacle with a View is straightforward but requires attention on timing to avoid midday heat—spring and fall offer the best window for climbing here, when cooler temperatures make the physical effort more manageable and the mountain’s scent of pine and sun-warmed rock peaks in intensity. The route faces broadly south, capturing the morning sun and providing shade in the afternoon, which favors an early start and mindful hydration practices.

Descending after this single-pitch climb is simple: a walk-off down the established trail leading back toward the base. The path is unambiguous but rough underfoot, reminding climbers to keep steady footing and plan for a gradual return through the forested slopes. Local advice encourages bringing sturdy footwear and water, as the approach and exit feature stretches of loose rock and sparse shade.

Butch the Bitch stands as a spirited test piece for climbers who seek classic trad exposure with a technical, physical edge. It is a route where the mountain challenges your resolve, the rock offers honest feedback, and the ledge at the top grants deserved respite—a brief moment to absorb the raw beauty of the San Bernardino backcountry and prepare for the next adventure that awaits just beyond the ridge.

Climber Safety

The off-width section demands precision and secure gear placements; loose rock is minimal but approach with caution. The ledge top-out is spacious but exposed—double-check anchors and avoid lingering during high winds or storms.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length70 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat on this south-facing route.

Bring a small rack of cams including a 4-inch for the off-width section.

Wear sturdy shoes — the approach and descent trail can be loose and rocky.

Hydrate well and carry water, particularly in spring and fall when the air can feel dry.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 grade here feels true to form but leans toward stiff because of the off-width finish, which pushes climbers beyond finger crack comfort zones. Expect a crux that requires technique and power, placing it slightly above many local 5.9s that stick to more straightforward cracks.

Gear Requirements

A small to moderate rack of cams is essential, with sizes ranging up to 4 inches. The protection opportunities demand careful placements, especially near the steep off-width where solid gear is crucial.

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Tags

off-width
crack climbing
single pitch
trad
California
San Bernardino Mountains