Bush Eviction offers a focused yet rewarding introduction to traditional climbing in Joshua Tree National Park. Situated on the North Face of Cap Rock, this 80-foot line climbs a well-defined crack system that demands both balance and a thoughtful approach to hand placements. Starting just left of the well-known False Layback, climbers engage immediately with side pulls and fist jams that build into a rhythm of controlled movements. The route follows a horizontal break where a careful weight shift lets you stand up, gaining purchase on a large flake that commands your attentiveness as it thickens. Here, the route’s character shifts as you angle right to find more secure fist jams before reaching a small roof feature. A leftward traverse past the roof reconnects you with the face, leading upward to a large, comfortable ledge that provides welcome relief and a chance to survey the surrounding desert expanse.

The climb’s single pitch and 5.9 rating make it approachable for climbers stepping up to traditional grades, though the subtle balance moves and varied crack sizes keep it engaging. An optional 5.10c variation offers a more direct and powerful start beneath the large flake for those looking to push difficulty. Protection calls for a standard to large rack, including cams from 2 to 4 inches, with 3-inch and 4-inch sizes essential for anchor placement and safely lowering your partner. The rock itself holds Joshua Tree’s signature quartz monzogranite texture—rough and secure—but careful assessment of placements is vital, especially near the roof where gear choices are less straightforward.

Located in the iconic Joshua Tree National Park near the Sheep Pass area, Cap Rock’s North Face provides a raw desert climbing experience. Despite the approachable length, the exposure to the sun can be intense, so timing your ascent for morning or late afternoon when temperatures moderate will enhance comfort and grip. The approach to the base is straightforward yet demands attention to desert conditions; the trail crosses scrub brush with occasional loose rock patches, but remains a quick, 10-minute walk from the main access road.

With only a handful of votes in the climbing community, Bush Eviction remains a quieter alternative to more crowded Joshua Tree classics. The route’s blend of technical crack climbing and manageable height makes it excellent for climbers progressing beyond beginner circuits. Keep hydration a priority and carry a balanced rack to adapt to the flare and size changes in the crack system. The generous ledge at the top offers ample space for gear stacking and team regrouping before returning via a short and simple descent.

This climb invites you to engage directly with the desert’s earthy textures and clear skies, offering a dose of solitude and challenge. Whether you’re aiming to hone crack technique or simply enjoy a solid single-pitch trad climb away from busy sectors, Bush Eviction is a practical choice that delivers authentic Joshua Tree climbing with a clear route and dependable protection options.