"Buns Away presents a concentrated, gritty offwidth climb in the Sugarloaf area near Lake Tahoe. This 50-foot trad route blends technical fist jams with an easing offwidth section, perfect for those looking to sharpen crack climbing skills in a manageable, scenic setting."
Buns Away delivers a focused taste of offwidth crack climbing just west of Lake Tahoe, framed by the rugged expanse of the Sugarloaf Area along the Highway 50 Corridor. This one-pitch 50-foot trad route beckons climbers to engage with a solid fist crack that leans left, testing your ability to navigate awkward hand and fist jams. The crack quickly transforms into a wider offwidth, inviting bold movements up through a section that eases in difficulty but demands steady technique and commitment. After this, the terrain relaxes into moderate 5th-class scrambling, leading climbers toward a pair of bolts anchoring the top.
The approach to Buns Away is approachable with typical Sierra foothill terrain—pine and scattered boulders guide you to the base of the climb, offering clear visibility of the imposing crack line. Being a single-pitch climb, it’s ideal for those seeking a short outing that focuses on learning or honing offwidth skills without committing to long multi-pitch routes. The protection relies primarily on BD cams ranging from sizes 3 to 6, with #6 cams providing the most secure fits in the wider sections. A well-placed bolt line at the top simplifies anchoring, featuring rappel rings that ease descent or allow you to walk off for those who prefer a more grounded exit.
Climbers are advised to prepare for tight fist jams at the base, which can feel more strenuous for those without experience in small offwidth techniques. The route feels approachable but expects solid crack climbing ability, especially moving into the widening crack. This line offers a raw connection to the rock, absent of fixed gear apart from the anchors, making thoughtful gear selection and placement essential. Shoulder and arm endurance will be tested as the offwidth demands sustained effort rather than short bursts.
Timing your climb to avoid the midday heat is wise; the left-leaning crack catches the morning sun but gains some cooling shade by afternoon, ideal for spring through early fall ascents. The surrounding landscape offers expansive views down the highway corridor with pine-fringed ridges framing the horizon, lending a quiet backdrop to your efforts. Remember to bring plenty of fluids and wear sturdy shoes with solid edging ability—slip-resistant rubber and a snug fit will make chimneying and jamming more manageable.
This route earns its moderate reputation with a straightforward rating of 5.9 but carries a considered challenge within the offwidth portion that doesn't shy away from testing climbers’ technique and mental focus. Whether you're dialing in your crack climbing skills or looking for a compact, satisfying route without the need for multi-pitch logistics, Buns Away stands ready to offer a gritty, hands-on experience just a short drive from Lake Tahoe’s bustle.
The lower fist crack requires careful hand and wrist positioning to avoid strain, especially on smaller hands. The rock is solid but can feel slick in warmer conditions, so climbing when the stone is cool ensures better friction. Top anchors are fixed bolts but double-check gear placements on the approach and avoid loose debris on the scramble above.
Approach enjoys light forest and rocky terrain—expect about 15 minutes from the nearest road access.
Morning climbs are cooler as the crack catches early sun but gains shade by midday.
Wear shoes with solid edging for secure chimney and fist jams.
Bring plenty of water; the route’s exposed rock absorbs heat quickly on sunny days.
BD cams from size 3 to 6 are necessary to protect this route, with #6 cams fitting best in the wider offwidth section. A combination of a #6 and #5 can suffice for the ascent, but multiple #6s will offer the most confident placements. Top anchors feature bolts with rappel rings to simplify descending.
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