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Bunghole Climbers: Classic Trad Challenge on Power Dome’s East Face

Mammoth Lakes, California United States
trad crack
alpine exposure
single pitch
tricams essential
bolted sections
southern sierra
short approach
Length: 120 ft
Type: Trad, Alpine
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Bunghole Climbers
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Bunghole Climbers offers a concentrated alpine trad experience on Power Dome's East Face, highlighting technical crack moves protected chiefly with tricams. This single-pitch route blends exposure with precise placements, perfect for climbers ready to face a brief but memorable challenge in the Southern Sierra."

Bunghole Climbers: Classic Trad Challenge on Power Dome’s East Face

Bunghole Climbers offers a focused burst of alpine trad climbing set against the dramatic East Face of Power Dome, within the rugged Southern Sierra near Courtright Reservoir, California. This 120-foot route consolidates its character in a single pitch, demanding precise technique and clever gear placements as you ascend through a striking landscape carved by wind and time. The climb’s opening moves require steady technique, grappling with a steep sequence that tests finger strength and body positioning. Here, the rock seems to challenge your every move, daring you to place small to medium tricams in the intermediate sections that secure the passage past its notorious bunghole features—a distinct, irregular fissure demanding respect and attention.

Protection is a calculated affair: five bolts safeguard critical areas, but the real security comes from well-placed tricams tailored to fit the unique cracks and pockets you encounter along the face. The route’s alpine nature means exposure is part of the experience, revealing vast panoramas of granite formations and shimmering blue waters of Courtright Reservoir below. Your senses are sharpened by the altitude and crisp Sierra air, with the sun’s path tracing shadows that shift subtly across the rock as the day unfolds.

Accessing Bunghole Climbers requires a committed approach. Hikers leaving the trailhead must navigate moderate terrain for roughly 30 minutes, winding through dry pine groves and granite slabs before the base reveals itself. A steady pace paired with good footwear ensures efficiency, especially given the sun's intensity during summer climbs. Timing your ascent mid-morning can make a critical difference—avoiding the afternoon heat while catching ideal light that enhances rock texture visibility.

Safety is paramount here. The small ledges offer limited rest points, making your placements and movements deliberate. Loose rock patches near the start require cautious negotiation, while the rap-down bolts demand practiced rappelling technique to exit safely. Judges of your timing should consider water availability on approach and pack accordingly, as local springs are seasonal. This climb is perfect for those seeking a moderate yet engaging challenge that melds technical crack climbing with alpine exposure in a spectacular Southern Sierra setting.

Climber Safety

Be mindful of loose rock near the start and ensure solid placements before committing to moves. The ledges are minimal, so momentum control and clean gear management are critical. The rappel station is well-equipped but requires experience to descend safely, especially after exertion.

Route Details

TypeTrad, Alpine
Pitches1
Length120 feet

Local Tips

Start your climb mid-morning to enjoy cooler rock and better visibility.

Wear stiff-soled climbing shoes to maintain precision on the technical moves at the base.

Bring extra water; natural sources near the trail are unreliable during dry months.

Double-check your rappel gear and knots before descending—rap rings require care.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 rating here generally holds true but leans slightly on the challenging side at the crux near the base where the moves are bouldery and finger-intensive. The protection scoring is good, though not generous, demanding confident gear placements especially in the irregular bunghole cracks. Climbers familiar with local Sierra 5.9s like those on nearby granite domes will find this route a solid test with classic trad sensibility.

Gear Requirements

Secure your rack with a strong selection of tricams, especially small to medium sizes, as this gear fits the intermediate bunghole cracks that are key for safe ascents. Supplement with traditional cams but rely on bolts for fixed security. Don’t forget robust rappelling equipment for the rap rings anchored at the top.

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Tags

trad crack
alpine exposure
single pitch
tricams essential
bolted sections
southern sierra
short approach