"Bundy Lane is a crisp single-pitch trad route featuring a left-leaning crack and an inviting lieback dihedral, nestled in Pine Creek Canyon. It balances technical crack climbing with accessible terrain, perfect for climbers refining their pursuit in a classic Eastern Sierra setting."
Bundy Lane offers a focused, single-pitch trad climb that commands your full attention within the rugged walls of Pine Creek Canyon. The route begins with a well-defined left-leaning crack that invites secure jammed hand and finger locks, pushing you steadily upwards. Soon, the crack opens into a smooth, straight-in chimney that leads to a small ledge, a brief moment to catch your breath and recalibrate your approach. From here, the climb transitions into an easier lieback dihedral that flows toward a comfortable anchor. The rock’s texture provides reliable friction, demanding precise footwork and deliberate movement. The surrounding cliffs rise sharply above the arid desert floor, exposing you to open skies and the dry California heat, while pine needles occasionally drift down the canyon breeze, adding a whisper of forest to the experience.
This route’s moderate length of 90 feet and single-pitch format make it ideal for those looking to sharpen crack climbing skills while enjoying a relatively accessible experience on solid Sierra granite. Protection requires small to medium-sized cams—singles of the smaller sizes and doubles from a .5 Camalot through to a #3 Camalot—to safely navigate the varying crack widths. The route finishes with a reliable lower-off anchor, simplifying descent and enhancing safety. Pine Creek Canyon itself offers more than just climbing; it’s a landscape where sun-bleached rock meets high desert flora, perfect for an afternoon escape after a morning ascent.
Planning a day here means preparing for variable temperatures and ensuring foot comfort for the approach, which entails steady uphill walking through sparse vegetation. Water is scarce, so bring enough to keep hydrated under the sun’s persistent gaze. Try to arrive early to avoid the heat that intensifies later in the day. Given the subtle challenges posed by the crack system, climbers should be familiar with placements in parallel cracks and ready for some off-width style moves. Bundy Lane rewards efficiency and patience, making each move count toward a satisfying top-out. Whether you’re progressing from beginner to intermediate trad or refining technique on Sierra granite, this climb offers clear, instructive features paired with an invigorating sense of exposure on quiet canyon walls.
The lower-off anchor is well-established, but the surrounding ledges require careful attention during descent. The approach involves loose scree and uneven terrain, so sturdy footwear and slow, deliberate steps are essential to prevent slips.
Bring plenty of water for the dry approach and sun exposure.
Wear climbing shoes with sticky rubber to tackle the subtle friction on granite.
Start early in the day to avoid the midday heat.
Practice finger and hand jams beforehand for smoother placements.
Protection demands a solid rack with singles in the smaller sizes and doubles ranging from a .5 to a #3 Camalot to cover the crack’s varying widths. The route finishes at a fixed lower-off, allowing for a smooth descent.
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