Adventure Collective
HomeClimbingBullocks

Bullocks at Suicide Rock: A Crisp Trad Climb in California

Idyllwild, California USA
trad
desert
undercling
single pitch
small gear
rappel descent
Length: 80 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Bullocks
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Bullocks offers a tight but rewarding trad climb on Suicide Rock’s right side, combining technical undercling moves with a smooth face finish. With solid gear placements and an 80-foot single pitch, it’s a standout route for climbers seeking a focused desert experience."

Bullocks at Suicide Rock: A Crisp Trad Climb in California

Bullocks commands attention on Suicide Rock’s right flank, offering a crisp, focused trad climb that shifts from a steep undercling sequence to an approachable face finish. The route starts with a left-facing corner just left of the Flatman Chimney, presenting climbers an immediate technical challenge that demands careful footwork and confident hand jams. The rock here is solid, with holds that feel carved with purpose, inviting climbers to trust their fingers and commit to a dynamic, undercling move that hooks the rhythm of the climb. Beyond this initial juggle, Bullocks eases into a slabby face, where balance and precise feet matter as much as upper body strength.

Stretching about 80 feet, this single-pitch route is a perfect day climb for those who want to blend steep technical climbing with a classic desert trad experience. The gear is straightforward: small to medium placements line the route, allowing for secure protection without combing for obscure cams—ideal for climbers looking to refine their traditional rack skills without overloading their packs.

The rock sits exposed to morning sun, making early starts wise during warmer months, while the afternoon offers refuge in patches of shade cast by the surrounding granite spires. As you climb, the desert air hums with the quiet energy of the high desert ecosystem—dry pine needles rustle at your feet and the wind plays through the chaparral below, daring you onward with every step.

Once at the top, the summit offers a gratifying vantage point of Suicide Rock and its neighboring formations, with views stretching out toward the rugged Desert Mountain foothills. The descent involves a straightforward rappel, an efficient way down that demands standard rappel skills and a moment’s care to avoid rope drags on coarse granite.

Bullocks is an inviting challenge: technical enough to push your trad climbing limits, yet accessible for those with basic rack confidence. The route's blend of steep moves, solid protection, and desert exposure makes it a versatile choice throughout the climbing season—but especially rewarding in the cooler months. Pack plenty of water, plan your approach and descent carefully, and prepare for a climb that sharpens your skills and your appreciation for California’s iconic granite.

Climber Safety

The rappel can be slick where ropes drag over rough granite edges—use rope protectors and double-check anchors. The exposure to sun can quickly dehydrate climbers, so bring sufficient water and protect against heat on warmer days.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length80 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the midday desert heat and maximize morning sunshine on the face.

Check rappel gear carefully, as the coarse granite can increase wear on ropes.

Keep your rack light—small to medium gear is sufficient and recommended.

Wear shoes with sticky rubber to handle slabby face sections confidently.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a rating feels fair and consistent with a crux that challenges climbers on the steep undercling near the start. After the crux, the difficulty softens to a moderate slab climb, making the route approachable once past the initial tricky moves. Bullocks aligns well with other mid 5.10 desert climbs in the area, rewarding precise technique over brute strength.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard trad rack with an emphasis on small to medium cams and nuts to cover the secure placements peppering the climb’s corner and face sections.

Share Your Ascent

Upload your photos of Bullocks and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.

Tags

trad
desert
undercling
single pitch
small gear
rappel descent