Bullethead East offers an engaging trad climb in Squamish’s Bulletheads area, a compelling mix of crack climbing challenges framed by cool, shaded ledges that invite both focus and calm. Spanning four pitches and roughly 500 feet, the route eases in with a moderate 5.8/5.9 start before delivering three pitches of solid 5.10 crack climbing. The cracks demand precision and stamina, especially where fingers thread through narrow seams and hands jam in sweeping grooves. The second pitch tests your technique with a demanding finger crack and a roof that requires a committed pull through a tough sequence, pushing you right up to the sustained crux. The third pitch offers options along parallel cracks, all roughly the same grade, navigating toward a bolted belay set on a dirt ledge that feels like a brief breathing spot. The final pitch stands out as the route highlight—a lengthy sustained finger crack and groove system that blends intricate hand jams with a steady rhythm over 30 meters. For those looking to switch it up, a nearby 10b chimney flare offers a fun top-rope variation but requires larger gear for lead.

Approach is straightforward, threading through the familiar trails of the Bulletheads sector, weaving beneath towering granite walls blanketed in forest shade. The descent is equally manageable, with two short rappels—one after pitch three using intermediate chains set down and right, and another to reach the ground. Even with a 70-meter rope, expect these short rappels, so plan accordingly.

Protection calls for a standard double rack from nuts through to #3 Camalots, with some placements requiring careful judgment in the wider sections, especially on the last pitch. Tree shade and cool surroundings make this climb especially appealing in warmer months, providing a respite from the sun and a steady temperature. With over 150 votes and an average rating of 3.7 stars, Bullethead East holds a solid reputation among local climbers and visitors alike. Its blend of accessible approach, reliable protection, and sustained technical climbing sets the stage for a memorable, repeat-worthy outing in one of Squamish’s most popular crag systems.

This route is an excellent choice for climbers seeking to stretch their crack climbing skills beyond the basics, with varied pitch profiles that test balance, endurance, and crack technique. Be prepared for some gear shuffling in the fingers and hands, and take time on the ledges to soak in the forest ambiance and tighten slings if needed. Bullethead East is poised to become a staple for climbers aiming to experience the essence of Squamish trad lines with a clear plan and invigorating challenge.