"Buffet Royal presents a sharp, technical challenge on the rugged Atlantis Wall, highlighted by a massive left-facing roof that tests your strength and strategy. This 70-foot sport climb offers a focused push with reliable protection and rewarding views of Echo Canyon’s wild Bow Valley."
Buffet Royal commands attention on Atlantis Wall, carved into the rugged cliffs hanging over Echo Canyon in Bow Valley, Alberta. This single-pitch sport climb stretches 70 feet of demanding vertical terrain, punctuated by a standout feature—a massive left-facing roof that serves as both the route’s signature challenge and its unmistakable landmark. The wall’s raw limestone grabs your gaze with its sharp edges and textured holds, inviting climbers into a dance of balance and power.
From the ground, the approach to Atlantis Wall is straightforward but requires focus: a brief hike through mixed forest trails leads you to the base, where the clang of draws and the murmur of wind through the canyon set the mood. The route starts with a few crimps and technical moves that ramp up quickly, leading to the infamous roof. This section demands finesse; most climbers find success using a clever method—pressing the left hand on a sloping hold while stemming the right foot outwards, opening space to swing the right arm over to a large jug. This move is the route's crux, testing both finger strength and body positioning.
Buffet Royal is bolted with nine closely spaced anchors, providing security without crowding the rock. The bolts run tight enough to give confidence but leave room to feel the rock’s natural character. At a graded 5.12a, the climb sits in the territory where technique must marry athleticism. For climbers looking to push past intermediate sport routes, it offers an engaging glimpse into Bow Valley’s true grit.
The surrounding environment pulses with the sounds of the Bow River far below and the whisper of pine branches. Climbers often pause at the top to take in sweeping views of the valley’s craggy ridges and thick forests, a reward earned after a challenging ascent. With its position leaning west, Atlantis Wall catches afternoon sun, making late morning to early afternoon the prime climbing window—early starts in summer prevent overheating and maximize stable rock temperatures.
Gear advice is simple but crucial: bring well-maintained quickdraws, as the protection is mostly bolts with anchors set for smooth clipping. Sturdy climbing shoes are key, especially ones that excel on small edges and slopers, as the rock tests your footholds. Water and sun protection are important, since the approach offers limited shade. Given the nature of the route, warming up on nearby climbs before attempting Buffet Royal is wise.
Approach trails are generally well-marked and take 15 to 20 minutes from the parking area. The path features uneven ground and occasional loose rock, so solid hiking shoes help. Descent follows a two-bolt rappel from the anchor station, dropping you back to the base safely and efficiently. Keeping ropes organized in the bush is essential to avoid snags.
Buffet Royal at Atlantis Wall offers a crisp, focused climbing experience. Its defining roof move demands both imagination and strength, making it a memorable test in one of Alberta’s prime climbing zones. Whether hunting for a new personal challenge or savoring the rugged terrain of Echo Canyon, this route leaves climbers feeling both accomplished and connected to the raw pulse of the Bow Valley wilderness.
The roof section requires a dynamic move that, if attempted without proper technique, could lead to a fall onto the preceding bolts. Climbers should ensure all quickdraws are clipped securely and wear helmets for potential rockfall. The descent rappel anchors need careful rope management to avoid snagging amidst nearby branches.
Start early to avoid afternoon heat on the west-facing wall.
Warm up on nearby easier routes before attempting 5.12a moves.
Use a stem technique to navigate the key roof section effectively.
Prepare for a two-bolt rappel descent; manage rope positioning carefully.
The route is secured by nine bolts leading to anchors at the top, providing steady protection ideal for confident clipping. Quickdraws suited for sport routes and shoes with good edge grip will make the effort smoother.
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