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Buck Fever: Classic Trad Climbing on Bucksnort Slab

Pine, Colorado United States
trad cracks
friction face
multi-pitch
bolt anchors
wide crack
finger crack
Colorado
South Platte
Length: 140 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Buck Fever
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Buck Fever is a two-pitch trad climb on Bucksnort Slab that balances crack climbing with friction face moves. With solid protection and accessible approach, it’s a reliable route that challenges both technique and composure."

Buck Fever: Classic Trad Climbing on Bucksnort Slab

Buck Fever greets climbers with simple access and a textured journey across crack systems and friction slabs, a route that has drawn repeat ascents since the mid-'90s. Situated just left of the Classic Dihedral and anchored by a large boulder leaning against the slab, this two-pitch 5.9 R climb offers both straightforward hand jams and more technical face climbing, making it a worthy challenge for those who appreciate a blend of protection variety and cerebral movement.

From the ground, the first pitch starts with inviting hands sizing up a smooth face, encouraging climbers to stay in the crack as long as possible before reaching a solid stance where a #4 Camalot placement demands confidence. The route splits briefly here: veer left into a leaning finger dihedral that culminates in a wide hands or layback bulge, or right for a steeper 5.10 variation before both lines reconvene. This finger crack waits for determined placement and a little muscle, then pulls climbers through some wider sections that accommodate medium-sized gear nestled against the rock, leading to a crescent-shaped roof anchor. The final moves on pitch one shift onto the face, a subtle yet thrilling transition that demands careful footwork and precise positioning to reach the belay bolts.

Pitch two is a study in controlled finesse. The 40-foot friction pitch is marked by just three bolts, spaced to test a climber’s balance and concentration. The first bolt hangs out about 15-20 feet left from the belay, and misjudging the clip can send sliders past the rope tender below. Maintaining steady momentum up the friction slab to the next bolts, climbers then sprint to the final anchors with an adrenaline rush that sharpens focus.

For those looking for extra challenge, a bolted alternative start on the giant boulder to the left offers a sustained 5.10 experience. The line, protected by five or six bolts, demands technical smearing and precise clipping between bolts one and three. This variation ends at the same anchors as pitch one, providing an option to extend the adventure.

Buck Fever excels as a moderate trad climb with reliable pro placements from small to medium cams and nuts, but the route does demand a rack that can handle its appetite—especially a #3 Camalot for the bulge at around forty feet up. Having three quickdraws for pitch two remains vital for efficient clipping on the friction pitch.

This route lives in the quieter reaches of the South Platte near Pine, Colorado, an area defined by its approachable yet varied terrain. Bucksnort Slab tantalizes with its open faces and streaks of crack, perfect for those who want accessible climbs that still push their skills. The slab’s granite texture provides solid friction, especially in cooler parts of the day.

Climbers should plan for a straightforward approach from Pine, with well-marked trails and minimal elevation gain. Take care when managing the rope on descent: the ropes frequently catch on the bulge on pitch one, demanding attention and careful handling during the rappel.

Whether you’re sharpening your crack technique or testing your slab skills, Buck Fever offers a blend of realism and challenge wrapped in steady granite. Practical gear, respect for rope management, and an eye for thoughtful movement will make this route a memorable entry in your Colorado trad climbing log.

Climber Safety

Ropes tend to snag on the bulge during the rappel, so careful rope management is crucial. Protection can feel spaced in parts, so staying attentive to placements and clipping is vital. The friction face on pitch two offers modest margin for error; a fall here could result in a swing if clips are missed. Keep in mind seasonal weather conditions that can make the slab slippery when wet.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length140 feet

Local Tips

Watch for rope drag around the bulge on pitch one during descent—keep ropes managed and avoid tangles.

Approach via well-marked trails from Pine for an easy, low-elevation hike.

Carry three quickdraws specifically for clipping the spaced bolts on pitch two’s friction face.

Consider the bolted alternative start on the giant boulder for a steeper technical challenge rated 5.10.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 R
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 R grade feels justified with a few moves that demand both technique and creativity, especially on the finger dihedral and wide crack sequences. The friction pitch second pitch requires mental control and secure clipping, adding to the sustained nature of the route. While some may find the protection generous in sections, the R (runout) rating warns of potential pendulums or rope drag, keeping caution in mind. Overall, it’s a stellar middle-ground for local climbers stepping up from easier 5.8 routes but not yet ready for sustained hard cracks.

Gear Requirements

Bring a trad rack stocked with small to medium cams or nuts. A #3 Camalot is recommended for the wide bulge about 40 feet up. Three quickdraws are essential for clipping bolts on the friction second pitch. Bolt anchors are solid at both 75 feet and the top at 140 feet.

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Tags

trad cracks
friction face
multi-pitch
bolt anchors
wide crack
finger crack
Colorado
South Platte