"Bubba Takes a Siesta offers a sharp 5.10a trad climb on Joshua Tree’s North Wonderland face, blending precise crack work with a memorable bolt-protected crux. This single-pitch route invites climbers seeking a concise but rewarding desert trad experience fresh with sun and sweeping views."
Bubba Takes a Siesta offers a raw and engaging trad climbing experience carved into the rugged landscape of Joshua Tree National Park's North Wonderland area. The climb unfolds on a clean face where an inviting horizontal crack beckons your gear placements, setting the tone for a route that balances technical difficulties with straightforward protection. After negotiating this initial feature, climbers encounter a solitary bolt securing a short but vital section, offering a moment of reassurance before committing to the right-arching crack that ascends sharply toward the summit. This finishing crack demands steady hands and precise footwork, rewarding those who trust their gear with a satisfying send and a summit that gazes out onto Joshua Tree's sun-flecked granite spires.
This one-pitch route, measuring 60 feet, is perfectly sized for climbers who crave an intense, focused challenge without the commitment of multi-pitch endeavors. Rated at 5.10a, Bubba Takes a Siesta sits firmly within the intermediate trad arena, featuring a crux that nudges you just beyond comfortable climbing—but without tipping into frustrating territory. The climb’s protection calls for standard trad rack components up to 2.5 inches, supplemented by one well-placed 5/16-inch bolt, essential for the tricky mid-route section where natural gear may thin.
The approach to North Wonderland can test your stamina before you even clip in. The terrain shifts from sunbaked desert scrub to boulder-strewn paths, punctuated by Joshua trees flexing their spiny branches above. Expect the ambient soundtrack of distant wind and occasional rustling wildlife as you weave through this unique desert landscape. Arriving at the base, the wall presents a clean, sun-washed face—a perfect canvas for focused climbing on crisp rock.
Local knowledge suggests starting climbs early in the day to take advantage of cooler temperatures and softer shadows, as the sun quickly warms the rock by mid-morning. With its southern exposure, Bubba Takes a Siesta enjoys full sun for much of the day, making hydration critical—bring plenty of water and wear breathable clothing.
Though the route’s length makes it tempting to treat as a quick tick, attention to detail is crucial. Foot placements on the right-arching crack require patience and mindfulness, as the protection here is spaced enough to demand confidence in your gear placements. A reliable rack with cams up to 2.5 inches will keep you secure throughout.
Joshua Tree’s North Wonderland area is a climber’s proving ground—wide open skies, soaring granite, and a landscape that invites respect. The area is characterized by a blend of solitude and rugged beauty, with many routes offering a sense of remoteness just a few miles from the park’s main entrances. Climbing here means engaging with a wild environment that challenges your skills and rewards your efforts with sweeping views and an elemental connection to the desert.
Descending after the climb is straightforward; a carefully re-threaded rappel using the bolt and natural anchors carries you safely back to the base. Be mindful of loose rock near the top and ensure all gear is accounted for to leave the climb as pristine as you found it.
Whether you’re adding Bubba Takes a Siesta to your list as a step up from easier trad routes or a focused outing to sharpen your crack climbing, this route delivers a concentrated pulse of Joshua Tree’s climbing spirit—challenging, accessible, and brilliantly situated amid towering desert formations.
Take care placing pro in the horizontal crack early on, as some placements require smoothing surfaces and patience. The bolt section helps reduce risk, but the right-arching crack above can have subtle loose flakes—test holds carefully. Hydrate well given the full-sun exposure.
Start early to avoid the midday desert heat on the sun-exposed face.
Pack at least 2 liters of water for the approach and climb.
Wear sticky rubber shoes designed for crack climbing to maximize grip.
Check your gear carefully—trustworthy cams up to 2.5 inches will be necessary for safe protection.
This route requires a traditional rack up to 2.5 inches. Expect solid placements in the horizontal and right-arching cracks, with a single 5/16-inch bolt joining the protection options mid-route for added security.
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