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Brothers in Arms: A Steep Hand Crack Challenge in Crow's Nest

Coldstream, Canada
hand crack
chimney
single pitch
trad
Nova Scotia
glue-in anchors
Length: 60 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Brothers in Arms
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Brothers in Arms challenges climbers with a demanding hand crack and a narrow chimney slot that punctuates the route. This single-pitch trad climb offers a gritty experience requiring precision gear placements and finger-to-fist jam technique."

Brothers in Arms: A Steep Hand Crack Challenge in Crow's Nest

Standing at the base of Brothers in Arms, the route immediately commands attention with its raw, vertical presence on the right side of a distinct roof feature. The climb begins with a demanding hand crack that tests your grip and commitment right from the start. After surmounting the roof, you’ll find yourself dropping into a narrow chimney slot—a welcome pocket of calm where you can catch your breath and listen to the hushed echoes of the wind brushing against the rock. But don’t linger too long; the route’s pulse kicks back in as you exit the chimney, where a sequence of steep finger and fist cracks push your technical skills and stamina on the final pitch.

Stretching 60 feet of intense trad climbing, Brothers in Arms invites climbers who appreciate powerful crack technique and confident gear placements. The route’s protection demands a solid double rack of hand-sized cams plus smaller and medium pieces to navigate the unforgiving fissures safely. While glue-in bolts secure the anchor, the journey here is all about trusting your placements and reading the rock’s subtle clues.

Located in Crow's Nest, Nova Scotia, this climb sits within a rugged landscape where the coastal breeze mingles with the scent of salt and pine, creating a refreshing atmosphere that energizes your ascent. The approach offers easy access through forested trails peppered with rocky outcrops, setting the stage for an invigorating day outdoors. Weather can shift quickly here, so timing your climb in the warmer months offers both stability and vibrant conditions.

Practical preparation is key—sturdy climbing shoes with excellent edge support will help negotiate the sharp edges of the hand crack, while chalk keeps your grip reliable through the sustained sequences. Hydration is essential, especially on warm days when the direct sun can heat the exposed wall. Aim to start your climb early to avoid afternoon glare and capitalize on cooler temperatures.

Brothers in Arms balances technical challenge with the reward of a commanding summit view. The narrow chimney breathes life into the ascent, offering a moment of respite amid the physical demands. This climb appeals equally to trad climbers looking to sharpen crack skills and adventurers eager to tackle a route that blends bold moves with thoughtful protection. The route’s compact length doesn’t underestimate its intensity, packing a full climbing experience into a single pitch where every move matters.

Climber Safety

The route’s crack system requires reliable protection placement with a focus on hand-sized cams; loose gear or hesitation could increase risk. The chimney offers rest but watch for slick rock and tight moves at the top where fatigue could lead to slips. Approach trails are stable, but remain alert for wet conditions after rain.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Bring a double set of hand-sized cams and some smaller sizes for tricky placements.

Start early to avoid the afternoon sun warming the exposed wall.

Wear shoes with precise edging capability to handle sharp crack edges safely.

Be prepared for a short but intense climb—rest in the chimney but keep your focus sharp for the top section.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10c
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.10c, Brothers in Arms demands solid crack climbing technique, combining sustained difficulty with a crux at the exit of the chimney where finger and fist jams intersect steep terrain. The grade is on par with other local trad climbs but feels stiff due to its intense technical requirements and protection demands.

Gear Requirements

Standard rack with duplicates of hand-size cams is essential. Glue-in bolts secure the anchor, but protection placements through the crack demand careful selection and confidence.

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Tags

hand crack
chimney
single pitch
trad
Nova Scotia
glue-in anchors