Broomsticks offers an engaging trad climb within the rugged landscape of The Sorcerer's Apprentice, part of the iconic Needles formation in California's Southern Sierra. This three-pitch route stretches roughly 400 feet, presenting climbers with a rewarding mixture of hands-on crack climbing and technical face moves. Approaching Broomsticks means stepping into a rock amphitheater where sharp edges and knobby holds challenge your precision and footwork, while the expansive environment delivers sweeping views of Kern River's raw terrain.

The climb begins from an alternate start known as Fantasia/Danse Macabre, which, despite not providing significantly better protection, boasts a more aesthetic line that many find worth the effort. Locating the start can be a subtle puzzle, positioned about 40 feet uphill and to the left of Love Potion #9. Following a groove and grippy face you’ll find the initial bolt on Danse Macabre, signaling your introduction to a section protected by widely spaced retro bolts. These bolts offer the main security on pitch one, but expect long runouts, especially near a large knob featuring a flaring crack. The crux here tests commitment and control, as pro placements can be sparse until you reach the crack below the first belay.

Pitch two demands sharper concentration, negotiating a runout face section sprinkled with bolts that are few and far between. Falling here requires confidence; the spacing suggests falling could lead to longer drops, especially compared to neighboring routes like Love Potion #9. However, the enjoyment comes from the careful, technical climbing required to navigate the knobs and cracks as the wall angles skyward, culminating at a bolted belay with a sigh of relief and a panoramic glance over the formation.

The final pitch keeps your focus as it tracks the right-hand edge of The Sorcerer's Apprentice. This section provides some breathing space with moderate difficulty, but the mental stamina to finish strong shouldn’t be underestimated. Upon reaching the top, climbers stand near the base of the imposing Wizard Needle’s south face, opening up opportunities for extended adventure sequences. Experienced parties often plan enchainments, linking Broomsticks or Love Potion #9 with climbs like the multi-pitch Demon on the Wizard Needle or the intriguingly technical Spooky or Gemstone climbs, accumulating close to 10 pitches without much ground travel. Be mindful that these ambitious routes require hauling packs and commitment to longer days.

Protection is a key factor to a safe and enjoyable ascent here. Bring a full rack of cams and nuts including a sizable 4-5 inch piece for the flaring crack. Slings for extending trad gear and some draws for bolts round out your setup. The bolting is sparse, especially on the first two pitches, so placing nuts and cams carefully to avoid runouts is essential. An experienced belayer is invaluable on this route, as securing a leader through runout sections requires smooth, quick management of the rope.

Access involves a straightforward but exposed approach within The Needles area, itself rugged and iconic for its granite spires. The trail to the base meanders through dry brush and scattered pines, with GPS coordinates around 36.10673 latitude and -118.48166 longitude marking the starting point. Plan for warm conditions and bring ample water, as this part of the Southern Sierra can grow hot through the day. Early morning starts are advisable to avoid heat on the face and to benefit from cooler, firmer rock conditions. The climb faces generally east, meaning afternoon sun heats the rock but mornings offer pleasant shade.

Descent options vary depending on your plans. You can rappel from the top station directly, or from the second belay down to the bolted rap station on Love Potion #9. From either point, careful downclimbing or rappelling leads back to the base. Whichever descent you choose, be prepared for some route-finding to avoid loose rock and steep sections.

Broomsticks is a route that rewards not just your technical skill but also your ability to read terrain, manage modest risks, and commit to the full experience of this storied granite formation. For climbers craving a serious, less-traveled trad climb with straightforward logistics and connections to a broader multi-route adventure, Broomsticks stands as a compelling choice in The Needles.