Carving a path through the rugged Electric Wall within the raw beauty of Gore Canyon, the Broken Nose offers four pitches of solid traditional climbing that balance moderate technicality with straightforward route-finding. From the moment you step onto the face just right of a dominant left-leaning crack, the rock demands thoughtful movement and a keen eye for subtle holds and gear placements. The first pitch weaves above a lone bush gripping the rock, leading to a solitary tree that marks a natural rest point. Protection on this section is sparse, calling for careful gear management to stay safe.

As you ascend the second pitch, a more relaxed 40-foot climb, you encounter options: conform to the prominent nose or skirt slightly right, edging closer to a mini-overhang crack—a feature that hints at the challenges ahead. This pitch provides relief and a steady rhythm before the climb intensifies.

The third pitch stands out as the heart of the route—about 90 feet of sustained climbing that tests your resolve. Moving directly up the nose, you’ll encounter several bulges requiring controlled technique and measured commitment. The verticality signals the approach of the headwall, where the final stretch begins.

Pitch four confronts you with a headwall steep enough to demand focus but manageable within the 5.8 rating. The terrain here pitches and eases, giving way to an anchor that feels like a hard-earned victory.

A thoughtful descent completes the adventure. Rather than a rugged scramble, the walkoff follows an overgrown but low-angle gully that bypasses heavy bushwhacking and eases you back to the trailhead in roughly 30 minutes. Alternatively, more experienced climbers can descend along the cliff’s edge and steeper gullies to reconnect with the talus slope at the base.

This route sits within Gore Canyon, a remote and wild stretch of Colorado’s outdoors where electric currents and steep rock walls combine to deliver a memorable climb. Climbers will need a standard rack equipped for traditional placements, as protection opportunities are solid but not abundant, especially early on. The weather here can shift quickly, so timing your climb for late spring through early fall ensures optimal rock conditions and minimal hazards. Shoes with precise edging capability and comfortable fit will serve well on the varied holds encountered across the pitches.

Whether you’re a trad climber looking for a moderate multi-pitch challenge or an adventurer hungry to explore Colorado’s less-traveled cliffs, Broken Nose offers a compelling blend of technical climbing, compelling movement, and a wild, open landscape that feels more like a journey than a sport. The route’s steady progression teaches patience and positioning, rewarding each move with a better understanding of how the rock interacts with your hands and feet. As the canyon’s wind shifts and the sun filters through the trees dotting the ledges, you’ll feel the pulse of this route—not just as a climb, but as a vivid encounter with Gore Canyon’s untamed spirit.