"Broken Arrow offers a sharp, single-pitch sport climb at Tunnel Crag with a deft corner and angled left wall culminating in a shared anchor. Perfect for climbers honing their 5.9 skills within the diverse setting of Angeles National Forest."
Broken Arrow stands as a sharply focused challenge hidden within the rugged folds of Tunnel Crag, part of the sprawling Angeles National Forest. This 160-foot single-pitch sport climb carves its line in a secluded slab, guiding you through an engaging corner and an angled left wall that demands precise footwork and steady hands. The climb shifts subtly right near the top, leading you toward a shared anchor with Uncle Tom's Short Story—this final traverse introduces a delicate transition that rewards calm movement and attention to sequence.
Set against the backdrop of the Los Angeles Basin, the route benefits from a balance of sun and shade throughout the day. The rock, shaped by natural forces and secured by a series of bolts, offers reliable protection, making Broken Arrow a dependable route for climbers seeking a moderate 5.9 test without the unpredictability of loose holds or uncertain pro. At an average star rating of 1.8 from a handful of votes, it presents a solid introduction for climbers ready to push toward this level or those keen to polish corner-climbing technique with a well-bolted line.
The approach begins with an accessible trailhead reaching Tunnel Crag, featuring a moderate hike through forested terrain peppered with chaparral and pine, providing a welcome shield from intense sun. Footpaths are well-marked but uneven, requiring sturdy footwear and a prepared mindset for light scrambling. Upon arrival, climbers face a rock face that thrives on precision; the corner section demands careful body positioning and balance, while the adjacent wall requires trust in your holds and smooth transitions.
For protection, climbers rely on fixed bolts spaced to allow for confident clipping and minimal runouts, concluding at a solid, bolted anchor equipped with rap rings. This setup simplifies descent and increases safety margins, encouraging focus on movement and endurance. The climb's technical demands balance well with its accessibility, making it a favored practice spot for working on sport-specific moves in southern California's varied climbing landscape.
Timing your ascent at cooler parts of the day, when shadows cool the north-facing wall, will help preserve grip and comfort. Spring and fall are optimum seasons, avoiding the scorching summer heat of the basin and the occasional winter chill. Hydration remains key; despite the moderate hike to reach Tunnel Crag, exposure and climate conditions make water essential.
Locally, Broken Arrow enjoys a reserved reputation—offering both a clear learning curve and a gratifying summit push. Though short, this climb emphasizes quality over quantity, making each move count and every clip meaningful. Whether you're refining technique or adding another route to your 5.9 playlist, it earns its place as a reliable outing with a straightforward descent rappel that ensures a safe return without scrambling uncertainty.
In essence, Broken Arrow is a climb that invites focus, rewards steady execution, and opens the door to the intricate sport climbing possibilities within the Angeles National Forest. It’s an approachable, thoughtfully bolted route where nature dares you to stay composed while testing your skill under the California sun.
Pay close attention to foot placements on the slabby sections, especially near the crux. The bolts provide solid security, but falls can mean skidding on low-angle terrain. The rappel uses rap rings at the fixed anchor; ensure proper rigging and double-check knots before descent.
Start climbs early to avoid afternoon heat on the crag’s sun-exposed sections.
Bring 12 quickdraws to cover all bolts and safe clipping strategies.
Wear shoes with effective edging for the slabby, technical footwork required.
Hydrate well before the climb; the approach offers limited water sources.
Route is fully bolted with plenty of quickdraws advised; anchor equipped with rap rings for straightforward rappel.
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