"Bridget the Midget reveals a gritty and engaging traditional climb on Eldorado Canyon’s West Ridge. Compact yet demanding, this 120-foot single pitch offers solid gear, sharp finger locks, and a raw edge that rewards focused climbers with a unique slice of Colorado granite."
Bridget the Midget offers a rugged taste of traditional climbing on Eldorado Canyon’s West Ridge, a route that rewards patience and precision despite its unassuming facade. The granite here doesn’t sparkle from afar; instead, it carries the quiet grit of a wall often ignored, its surface cloaked in lichen and marked by patches of loose stone. But for those who commit, the climbing is engaging with solid placements and distinctly physical moves that highlight the rock’s character.
Starting where the trail brushes the base of the cliff, the climb begins in a shallow dihedral that channels you left into a flake crack, where a #4 cam becomes an anchor of confidence. The crack demands steady hands and focused footwork, carving a path up towards a scruffy tree that anchors your progress. Just before reaching this small sentinel, a hidden hand ledge invites you left again into the crux: a left-facing dihedral where sharp finger locks and stemming hold sway. Reliable nuts or small cams (think TCUs) keep this pitch protected, though the moves require deliberate placement and strong technique.
Above this crux lies a small ledge crowned by a diminutive tree or bush that will soon become your footing for the final stretch. The last twenty feet feel easier but ask for careful footwork to avoid the loose, rotten rock edging the top. This fragility at the summit ledge is not just a climbing hazard but a critical safety consideration for those below — a misplaced rock here could spell danger to the trail hikers.
At just 120 feet and a single pitch, Bridget the Midget is a compact climb with a playful, gritty edge. It suits climbers seeking an authentic trad experience without long approaches or complex logistics. The route’s raw atmosphere encourages cautious respect and smart gear choices, leaning on a couple of #3 and #4 cams to navigate its key placements. Though the route garners modest star ratings, the quality of the moves and reliability of the protection make it worthwhile for those who appreciate the lesser-known faces of Eldorado Canyon.
For visitors, timing and preparation matter. Approach on firm shoes, carry the right cams, and plan your climb in dry conditions to avoid spalling loose rock. Above all, maintain awareness near the top ledge as it borders the busy trail.
Ultimately, Bridget the Midget challenges the bold with its straightforward but gritty character, rewarded by an intimate connection to Eldorado’s wild West Ridge and the satisfying dance of protection and movement the climb demands.
Loose rock at the top ledge poses a serious risk; climbers must approach with caution to avoid rockfall that could injure hikers on the trail below. Additionally, careful protection placement is mandatory to mitigate the slightly unstable nature of some upper blocks.
Watch carefully for loose rock near the top ledge; avoid dislodging debris onto trail users below.
Climb in dry weather to reduce risk of rock spalling and gain secure foot placements.
Bring a #4 cam for the initial crack and the left-facing dihedral at the crux.
Approach via Eldorado Canyon State Park trails; the base is accessible with a short walk from parking.
The route calls for traditional protection emphasizing #4 and #3 cams, with two #4s recommended for the main crack and dihedral sections, plus two #3s as useful but not mandatory extras. Nuts and TCUs will serve well for the crux stemming moves, making gear placement key for safety and progress.
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