5.10a, Trad, TR
Truckee
California ,United States
"Bottomless Topless delivers an 80-foot trad climb packed with technical chimney moves and delicate finger cracks. Perfect for climbers eager to hone their crack skills while enjoying the rugged granite of Donner Summit’s Snowshed Wall."
Bottomless Topless offers an engaging 80-foot pitch that tests both technique and composure on the North Face’s Snowshed Wall at Donner Summit. This classic trad route begins just left of more popular climbs like Ariel and Devaluation Direct, carving a distinctive line into a hidden alcove where the rock’s character shifts dramatically. The climb kicks off with a steady approach into a small hole, drawing you in before squeezing into a chimney that demands finesse and attentiveness. This chimney section beckons you to use delicate finger jams offered by subtle cracks at its rear, a tactile playground for precise gear placements and balance.
Once past the chimney's constriction, the route leans right, intensifying in difficulty with technical footwork and challenging right-hand side-pulls that test your climbing IQ. Here, climbers face a crux that is equal parts technical and physical—making foot placement critical and handholds precious. The upper section relaxes just enough to reward you with solid jams and locks, alongside reliable footholds, guiding you confidently to the top anchor.
Protection on Bottomless Topless relies on a traditional rack featuring stoppers and cams, with an emphasis on medium-sized pieces, particularly 2 to 2.5-inch cams that fit beneath the route’s distinctive A-frame roof. While the crux area is not fully bolted, careful placements of nuts or TCU’s before this section ensure safety without sacrificing the thrill of managing risk. A retro-bolt anchor near the summit streamlines top-rope setups for those leading or following the route.
Donner Summit’s Snowshed Wall is a solid granite playground, offering a rugged outdoor experience framed by sweeping views of the I-80 corridor and distant Lake Tahoe. The approach is straightforward but requires a keen eye to find the climb’s starting point amid the cluster of routes. Weather can influence your timing, with spring through fall being the best window to enjoy dry rock and comfortable temperatures.
Local climbers recommend tackling this route with sticky-soled shoes designed for crack climbing, and ensuring hydration during warmer months as the ascent is exposed to sun in the afternoon. The climb's moderate length and manageable commitment make it an excellent choice for trad climbers looking to sharpen trad crack skills against real granite challenges. With close proximity to interstate access and the convenience of nearby climbing areas, Bottomless Topless strikes a balance of adventure and accessibility in one concise pitch.
Be mindful that some gear placements near the crux can feel marginal; careful assessment of each pro piece is essential. Watch for unstable bits of rock near the chimney entrance and secure your gear placements under the A-frame roof cautiously.
Start early to avoid afternoon sun hitting the upper sections.
Sticky sneakers with good crack friction improve footwork on jams.
Bring plenty of water, especially in summer, as there’s limited shade.
Check for loose rock around the chimney’s squeeze before leading.
Bring a standard trad rack with emphasis on stoppers and cams in the 2 to 2.5-inch range. The crux section requires careful placements under the A-frame roof, so be prepared for gear that fits tight finger cracks and small cams. The retro-bolt anchor at the top simplifies top-rope setups.
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