"Botswana Baby offers a well-protected finger crack on Negress Wall that’s both approachable and engaging, ideal for climbers looking to refine their crack climbing skills in the stunning Owens River Gorge. With firm granite and solid bolting, it blends technical moves with practical safety for a memorable single-pitch adventure."
Botswana Baby slices through the rock face of Negress Wall with a bold, bolted finger crack that invites climbers into an engaging, focused experience. Located in the heart of Owens River Gorge, this route offers a climb that balances technical crack climbing with the reliability of sport protection—perfect for those eager to test their gear skills while enjoying the raw granite environment. The climb is just shy of 70 feet and runs a single pitch, making it an accessible yet rewarding outing for climbers seeking a straightforward challenge in this iconic Eastern Sierra locale.
The route begins immediately left of its sharper sibling, Fear of a Black Planet, where a clean, well-protected crack beckons. As you ascend, the crack demands precise hand and finger jams, pushing your technique without overwhelming complexity. The rock feels granular and solid, though lower sections offer a tactile roughness that sharpens confidence in your placements. The climb culminates around an arete where a convenient anchor system secures the top and serves as an efficient top-rope setup for nearby routes like Chocolate City and Broken Battery.
Owens River Gorge is known for its granite walls carved by relentless winds and seasonal shifts, lending the climbs an exposed, sun-drenched quality during summer afternoons and cooler shadows in the early mornings. Botswana Baby benefits from this exposure—early starts help avoid midday heat, while shoulder seasons let climbers experience the wall in crisply refreshing conditions.
For those looking to extend their climbing day, the adjacent second pitch Free To Choose offers a step up in difficulty with a tough 11c grade bolted sport route. It’s a striking option for experienced climbers who want to link pitches, though caution is advised as loose rock persists in that section. Combining both pitches into one long pull is an option but requires careful route reading and risk management.
In practical terms, bring a standard sport rack; the six bolts assure solid clipping points, and a mussie anchor secures the top. The approach is straightforward from the Central Gorge trailhead, a roughly 15 to 20-minute trek over moderate terrain peppered with sparse sagebrush and the ever-present scent of pine. Shoes with firm edging ability and a focus on crack technique will serve climbers best here, while hydration and sun protection are essential, especially in warmer months.
Botswana Baby offers a distinct balance—a climb that tests your technical crack skills while immersing you in the rugged Owens River Gorge atmosphere. The solid protection and inviting length ensure that this route makes for an excellent introduction to the area’s sport crack climbing or a satisfying send for seasoned climbers refining their finger jams.
Though well-protected, climbers should remain alert for occasional loose rock especially if venturing onto the adjacent Free To Choose pitch above. The approach terrain is stable but rocky, so watch your step, particularly when carrying gear. Sun exposure on the wall can be intense through the afternoon hours.
Start early to avoid the midday sun which can heat the granite aggressively.
Use shoes with good edging capacity and focus on finger jam techniques for the crack.
Bring plenty of water and sun protection; the approach offers limited shade.
Check Free To Choose pitch conditions above if you plan to extend; loose rock remains a hazard.
Six bolts protect the finger crack, crowned by a reliable mussie anchor that doubles as a top-rope setup for neighboring climbs. Minimal gear beyond quickdraws and standard sport rack is required. The protection rhythm is consistent, supporting confident movement through the hands and fingers.
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