5.5, Trad
Bon Echo
Ontario ,Canada
"Boris' Route offers one of the finest 5.5 trad climbs in Bon Echo with three pitches of ramping limestone and solid protection. It combines approachable technical moves with scenic forest surroundings, making it a go-to for climbers seeking a multi-pitch adventure that’s both rewarding and accessible."
Boris' Route stands out as one of the most accessible and rewarding 5.5 trad climbs in the Bon Echo region of Ontario. This three-pitch route invites climbers into a landscape where black cokey rock surfaces catch the sun with a matte glow, punctuated by the natural rhythm of ramping ledges that guide your movement upward. The first pitch sets the tone with a 20-meter stretch along a distinct ramp, where the rock feels solid beneath each hand and foot placement, leading you to a well-defined belay ledge. As you ascend, the environment around you takes on character—a steady breeze brushing pine needles nearby and the quiet presence of the surrounding forest framing the climb.
The second pitch, about 25 meters in length, continues to follow the ramp, adding subtle shifts in angle that test your balance and footwork. Here, a small sloping ledge with two permanent bolts offers a reassuring spot to catch your breath and check your gear. This pitch strikes a practical balance between exposure and security, making it approachable even for those easing into multi-pitch trad climbing.
The final 25-meter pitch leads you leftward, navigating toward a large ledge beneath an inviting overhang. Pulling over this feature introduces a memorable jolt of effort before you reach the final anchor bolted for safety. Throughout the climb, placements are generally straightforward, with ample opportunities to place standard gear. A handful of pitons and bolts supplement the protection, giving an extra layer of confidence on this classic route.
Bon Echo Provincial Park itself is a rugged playground where this climb sits as a quiet highlight amid limestone walls and forested approaches. As you move between pitches, the mix of rock textures and natural elements pushes a connection beyond just physical exertion—it feels like you’re part of the cliff’s slow but insistent dialogue.
For trip planning, arrive early to secure parking at the trailhead and to enjoy cooler morning temperatures on the rock. Footwear with solid edging capability will serve well on textured limestone surfaces. Hydration is crucial, especially in warmer months when the sun warms the exposed ramp sections directly. The climb's aspect catches the morning sun and moves into shade by afternoon, offering some relief during peak heat.
This is a climb that mixes approachable technical climbing with scenic surroundings and straightforward logistics, making it a perfect introduction to Bon Echo’s sport-friendly trad routes. Whether coming from nearby Ottawa or traveling deeper into Ontario’s outdoor landscape, Boris' Route promises a blend of challenge, beauty, and quiet satisfaction.
Although protection is mostly good, some pitons near the top can feel older and should be assessed cautiously. The belay ledges are generous but double-check bolts before trusting anchors. Approach trail can be slippery with wet leaves—plan accordingly after rain.
Start early to avoid crowds and catch morning shade on the lower pitches.
Wear shoes with pointed toes and stiff edging for precise footwork on limestone ramps.
Carry plenty of water, especially on warm days, since the approach and route offer limited shade.
Double-check anchor bolts for integrity before committing to belays.
Protection is generally solid with ample placements for nuts and cams, complemented by a few fixed pitons and bolts on the upper pitches. Bring a standard trad rack with extras in small to medium sizes for safe placements along the ramps.
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