"Bookmark climbs a prominent white dihedral on Lover’s Leap’s Central Wall, blending moderate trad moves with rewarding exposure. Three pitches of solid granite and manageable protection make it a dependable choice for those ready to link up multiple pitches in the Sierra."
Bookmark is a solid three-pitch trad route rising 370 feet on the Central Wall of Lover's Leap, offering climbers an authentic slice of Sierra Nevada granite. From the base, your eye catches a large white dihedral arching high above Main Ledge, beckoning with the promise of clean cracks and textured face holds. The climb begins with a striking crack system that gently tests hands and feet on a sustained 5.7 pitch over about 140 feet. Here, the rock feels cool to the touch, with occasional pockets where seasoned hands lock in and muscles engage rhythmically.
Reaching the belay station, a short pitch delivers you onto Main Ledge, a natural resting spot where you can savor the surrounding views—the forested ridges below and the distant shimmer of Highway 50 winding past Lake Tahoe. From here, you push upward into the dihedral itself, which rises like a natural gateway to the summit. The crack widens and narrows invitingly, requiring steady footwork and clever gear placements to ascend smoothly. This section challenges climbers to trust technique over brute strength, with holds that reward precise moves.
Protection is straightforward with gear placements up to 3 inches, making it accessible for trad climbers equipped with standard rack sizes. The rock quality remains solid, but occasional patches require mindful placement. Expect an environment shaped by dry Sierra winds and the occasional call of distant birds, the elements encouraging focus.
The descent is equally manageable—after topping out, walkers take a short leftward walk-off, returning efficiently to the base without scrambling hazards. Climbing Bookmark appeals to those seeking a classic trad adventure with just enough technical challenge to sharpen skills, all set against the timeless backdrop of towering granite and whispering pines. Plan for early morning starts to enjoy crisp air and fewer crowds. Bring plenty of water and layered clothing, as the summit offers exposure to cooling breezes.
Bookmark stands as a practical yet immersive climb. It engages both the senses and the mind, offering tactile granite, strategic movements, and rewarding panoramas without demanding extreme difficulty. This climb is an ideal gateway for those moving beyond single-pitch routes toward multi-pitch experiences in the Sierra.
While the protection placements are mostly solid, some pro within the dihedral require careful selection to ensure security. Beware of loose rock near the belay station at Main Ledge, and keep an eye on the descent route as it’s an easy walk but can be disorienting in low light.
Start early in the morning to avoid heat on the rock and to secure less crowded belays
Wear shoes with good edging capability for the varied crack and face climbing
Hydrate well—the approach and climb expose you to drying winds especially at higher pitches
Scout the walk-off route left from the summit carefully; it’s straightforward but best followed down in daylight
Bring a standard trad rack with protection capable of placements up to 3 inches. Gear placements are generally reliable but pay attention to occasional tricky placements within the dihedral.
Upload your photos of Bookmark and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.