"An exposed finger crack climb tucked just above the initial pitch of Bogen. Book of Bogen rewards trad climbers with precise stemming and technical jams, set against the quiet expanse of Cochrane Lane Cliffs."
The Book of Bogen finger crack emerges boldly from the steep open book corner at Cochrane Lane Cliffs, inviting climbers into a technical sequence that blends subtle finesse with raw exposure. This single-pitch, 65-foot climb demands precise finger jams threaded through a narrow crack that contours the vertical face. The air fills with the quiet rustle of wind and distant bird calls, while the cliff itself commands views over the surrounding New Brunswick landscape, a quiet reminder of the wild beyond the crag.
Starting just above the first pitch of the main Bogen route, the crack forces careful stemming and delicate footwork along its slender line. Each move requires attention to detail — small but confident placements create a rhythm that flows naturally for climbers comfortable with finger-sized protection. The rock's texture provides good friction, while the openness of the corner adds a thrilling sense of space without overwhelming. At the pitch’s end, a sturdy tree anchor offers a secure belay position to catch your breath and soak in the sweeping views before descending.
This climb suits trad climbers with experience leading crack routes and placing small to medium protection efficiently. Gear choices should focus on cams that fit snugly in narrow fissures, ensuring placements are both solid and trustworthy. The approach is straightforward, with Cochrane Lane Cliffs accessible via well-marked trails near Welsford, New Brunswick. The area’s forested paths cushion your steps and heighten the anticipation building beneath the rocky face.
Timing your ascent for late spring through early fall is ideal; the wall catches the afternoon sun, warming the rock and drying dampness that often lingers in cooler months. Those venturing here should prepare for variable weather and carry enough water to stay refreshed during the approach and climb. Sturdy shoes with sticky soles will aid your footholds, especially on the delicate stemming sections.
Whether you’re aiming to sharpen your trad crack skills or seeking a rewarding single-pitch climb with natural protection challenges, Book of Bogen’s finger crack offers a balanced adventure. The crisp, exposed moves are matched by the quiet majesty of the cliffs, providing a memorable day out that pairs technical climbing with the serene backdrop of New Brunswick wilderness.
Place gear carefully in the narrow finger crack as protection options are limited and require precision. The tree anchor at the top is secure but check for looseness before relying fully. The rock is generally sound but avoid climbing after heavy rain when the friction reduces substantially.
Approach via the marked trails through Amphitheatre for a 20-minute hike, watch for wet roots on the final stretch.
Carry a set of cams sized for finger to smaller hand jams, double up where possible for added security.
Plan climbs for mid-morning to afternoon to take advantage of sun-warmed rock on this east-facing wall.
Bring water and snacks to enjoy at the summit tree anchor during the belay; the area is quiet and peaceful.
Use a rack focused on small to medium cams for tight crack placements. Precise gear placement is key, as protection opportunities are limited to the slender finger crack running the open book line.
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