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Boogaloo Direct at Big Rock: A Classic 5.9 Trad Challenge

Riverside, California United States
finger crack
bulge crux
single-pitch
granite
trad protection
Big Rock
Length: 95 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Boogaloo Direct
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Boogaloo Direct carves a direct line up a bulging granite face at Big Rock with a 5.9 crux that rewards precise seam climbing and smart gear placements. This accessible trad route demands respect and delivers a compact taste of California’s rugged granite."

Boogaloo Direct at Big Rock: A Classic 5.9 Trad Challenge

Boogaloo Direct stands as a straightforward yet testing climb on the towering Main Slab of Big Rock, California. This single-pitch trad route demands an attentive eye and steady technique as you launch directly up a bulging face section, relying on a narrow, vertical seam for upward progress. The crux greets you early on—the seam tightens and steepens, calling for precise hand jams and confident footwork. A lone bolt guards this technical move, giving a spot of relief amid otherwise gear-dependent climbing. As you pull through this bulge, tension gives way to easier terrain, where two additional bolts mark the path toward a secure belay stance.

Big Rock’s granite face provides a distinctly raw adventure distinctly different from bolted sport routes. Protection is sparse compared to more modern climbs, so placing solid gear along the seam and trusting your placements becomes vital. This element of calculated risk, paired with the exposed quality of the slab, creates a memorable encounter. The belay anchors, equipped with two bolts, double as rappel stations, allowing a safe and straightforward descent.

Located inside Inland Empire’s rugged expanse, Big Rock offers climbers a taste of the region’s classic granite quality, marked by crisp edges and textured holds. Approaching the route involves a moderate hike on well-trodden trails that carve through scrub and low pines, setting the tone with the scent of chaparral and the whisper of mountain breezes. The main slab’s sun-facing orientation means cooler early mornings will keep you comfortable and your hands dry, with afternoon heat baking the rock.

Planning ahead is key: a standard trad rack covers most placements here, with a focus on smaller cams suited for narrow seams. The area sees moderate traffic, but expect quieter moments outside weekends, offering an immersive experience where the rock and your technique are central. Local climbers recommend this route as a stepping stone—an opportunity to hone lead skills on real granite without the complexity of multi-pitch climbs.

Whether you’re driving from nearby Riverside or farther afield, Big Rock’s accessibility makes it a strong candidate for a day trip. With 95 feet of climbing that blends technical moves and gear trickiness, Boogaloo Direct strikes a balance between an approachable challenge and a memorable climb. For those ready to engage with rock in its natural state, it offers clear rewards and a touch of edge that keeps the pulse steady and focus sharp.

Climber Safety

Protection is limited around the crux, and the bolt coverage can feel sparse by Big Rock’s standards. Be vigilant with gear placements, especially when moving through the bulge. The descent rappel requires standard double-rope technique—confirm anchor integrity before descending.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length95 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat on the sun-exposed slab.

Scout the bulge carefully and plan your gear placements before committing.

Use smaller cams for the vertical seam section for secure protection.

Plan for a rappel from the bolted anchors; double-check your rappel setup.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:While rated 5.9, Boogaloo Direct leans toward the upper end of this grade due to a sustained bulge crux protected by limited bolts. The vertical seam places a premium on solid technique and gear confidence. Compared to other local 5.9 sport climbs, this route feels stiffer because of the trad nature and runout sections.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard trad rack emphasizing small cams and nuts for narrow seam placements. The route has three bolts, including a single bolt protecting the crux, plus a 2-bolt anchor for belay and rappel.

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Tags

finger crack
bulge crux
single-pitch
granite
trad protection
Big Rock