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Bong's Away Center at Reed's Pinnacle

Yosemite Village, California United States
off-width
knee jams
trad
Yosemite
single pitch
5.9
clean crack
Length: 100 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Bong's Away Center
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Bong's Away Center offers climbers an accessible crack climb on Reed's Pinnacle, featuring a clean off-width that challenges knee jams and technique. Perfect for those eager to experience Yosemite's iconic crack climbing style, this route blends manageable difficulty with thoughtful protection and distinct character."

Bong's Away Center at Reed's Pinnacle

Bong's Away Center on Reed's Pinnacle stands out as a prime introduction to the crack climbing that defines Yosemite Valley's legendary granite. This single-pitch trad route, just shy of vertical, presents a clean and well-protected off-width crack that widens gradually from a tight three inches to a more manageable six inches near the top. The climb’s rhythm is rooted in knee jams and precise hand stacks, demanding both patience and technique but offering a satisfying flow through its 100-foot length.

As you start, the crack feels snug, challenging your commitment with smaller jams that test finger strength and positional finesse. Around mid-height, the crux emerges: a pure five-inch off-width section that forces a strong, controlled effort. Beyond this, the crack loosens, adorned with knobs that provide solid holds as you push through the final moves. This middle crux defines the route’s character, bridging the gap between beginner-friendly climbing and tougher off-width challenges. Historical debates peg the difficulty around 5.10a, but compared to Yosemite’s haul of off-width routes, Bong's Away feels comfortably nestled at 5.9, making it perfect for those ready to step into Valley-wide crack climbing.

The approach to Reed's Pinnacle is straightforward, dropping onto a ledge that commands views of the Lower Merced River Canyon, an ever-moving companion daring you onward. Reed's Pinnacle’s rugged granite basks in the morning sun, cooling as the afternoon shadows stretch. The exposed rock is inviting but demands respect: keep your footholds crisp and your gear placements deliberate.

Protection demands a specialized rack: a single set of Black Diamond C4 cams from #3 to #6 secures the crack effectively, with optional doubles in the 4 and 5 sizes for climbers who prefer extra security or want to avoid walking their cams during the traverse. The traverse itself creeps along a subtle horizontal section requiring a BD .5 to #2 cam for pro, enhancing safety without cluttering your rack.

Local climbers appreciate Bong's Away for its clear beta and manageable challenge, its off-width nature a practical gateway to bigger Yosemite classics. Knee jamming here isn’t just technique — it’s a conversation between climber and rock, demanding finesse and steady breathing. Before your ascent, ensure your slings are long enough to manage rope drag and gear cleaning efficiently; placing pro on the traverse requires confidence or strategic avoidance.

Climate-wise, the route thrives in spring through mid-fall. Summer can bring intense sun on the rock, while winter’s chill often pushes climbers to lower elevations. Early starts beat the heat and prime muscle performance, and the crack remains reliably dry with little seepage.

After sending, rappelling down Reed’s Pinnacle or following the walk-off trail requires attention, especially on loose terrain at the base — stay focused, and your descent will be as straightforward as the climb itself.

Bong's Away Center opens a doorway to Yosemite’s crack climbing culture. It’s an honest, raw slice of the Valley’s granite that balances challenge with accessibility, promising a climb that sharpens skills and widens horizons.

Climber Safety

The traverse section, while short, presents tricky placements that can create rope drag—manage gear carefully and avoid placing pro on the traverse unless confident. Also, be cautious on the descent, as loose rocks at the base may pose hazards.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Bring long slings to manage rope drag and ease gear cleaning.

Start early to avoid afternoon heat and keep the crack dry.

Focus on knee jam technique through the crux 5-inch off-width section.

Use doubles of mid-sized cams if you prefer extra security on the traverse.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Though often given a 5.10a tag, Bong's Away feels like a well-earned 5.9 for those comfortable with off-width techniques. The key crux lies within a sustained 5-inch crack section that demands precise jams and body tension. Compared to Yosemite’s more brutal off-widths, this climb offers a more approachable challenge, making it an ideal next step for climbers moving from finger cracks to wider jams.

Gear Requirements

A single set of Black Diamond C4 cams from #3 to #6 cover the protection needs, with doubles in 4 and 5 recommended for extra security. The traverse section requires smaller cams between BD .5 and #2 to minimize rope drag and ensure safe placements.

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Tags

off-width
knee jams
trad
Yosemite
single pitch
5.9
clean crack