"Bonesaw Arete delivers a sharp, technically engaging 5.10c pitch on El Potrero Chico’s Grande Spire. This route blends precise movement on clean face holds with the thrill of climbing one of Mexico’s finest sport lines, perfect for climbers ready to push their skills in a focused yet flowing ascent."
Bonesaw Arete offers a focused, intense experience on one of El Potrero Chico’s standout spires, where precise movement and technical finesse take center stage. This single-pitch sport climb, rated 5.10c, winds its way up the left-facing arete of the Grande Spire, inviting climbers to test their skills on a line that balances edge and arete climbing across clean, face holds. Starting from the higher belay at the top of Crack Test Dummies pitch one, climbers follow a series of bolts that track the distinctive, sharp arete side facing the Mota Wall. The rock here holds an inviting texture — firm enough for confident hand jams yet challenging enough to keep you engaged throughout the 100-foot push.
The route is an alternate second pitch for those who have just climbed Crack Test Dummies, so it moves seamlessly from one adventure to the next. BoneSaw Arete’s character lies in its steady progression: each move feels deliberate, and while the climbing is sustained, it avoids overly complex or gymnastic sequences. Climbers will appreciate the flow of the line as it dances along the corner before finishing on a prominent ledge. From there, options abound: you can either top out by tackling the 12-foot third pitch of Crack Test Dummies or, for a more satisfying finish, follow the last three bolts of Sunnyside Up to reach the summit of the Grande Spire.
El Potrero Chico’s rugged northern Mexican backdrop enhances the sense of raw adventure with its clear blue skies and striking desert vistas just beyond the rock’s edge. The area latitude and longitude place you squarely in one of North America’s premier climbing destinations, where rock quality is solid and the climbing community’s enthusiasm is palpable. Protection on Bonesaw Arete is straightforward — it relies solely on bolts, so bring your quickdraws and a light anchor setup. With only one pitch, this route makes a perfect add-on or a focused project for climbers comfortable at 5.10c difficulty.
Planning your climb here means pacing yourself for the approach from the main staging areas to the spires. The rock faces a favorable west-southwest aspect, catching the sun most of the day, so start early to avoid the midday heat especially in warmer months. Sturdy footwear and plenty of water remain essential in this dry environment. Expect a mix of sharp sunlight and some shade under the arete, which can provide welcome relief during those long, technical moves.
Bonesaw Arete shares bolts with nearby routes like Achtung Rheinstein Arete, creating a network of options for adventurous climbers keen to explore multiple lines in a single outing. Whether you’re linking pitches or focusing on this sharp, clean climb, the route delivers precise sport climbing with a rugged edge—classic El Potrero Chico. For descent, rappelling from fixed anchors is standard, and on route topouts, careful attention to anchors and ropes will keep your retreat safe and efficient.
This route rewards climbers looking for a technically engaging, bolted experience that blends the thrill of exposed arete climbing with practical logistics. The understated nature of Bonesaw Arete means it doesn’t draw huge crowds, offering a chance for quieter moments amid the high desert winds and granite spires. Prepare well, approach with respect for the sun and terrain, and you’ll find a memorable challenge waiting on this clean, compelling line.
The final section requires attention to fixed anchors and proper rope management for rappels; the ledge is exposed, and desert winds can add distraction. Avoid climbing late in the day when heat or rock temperature might cause fatigue.
Begin climbs early to avoid peak afternoon heat on the west-facing spire.
Bring stiff-soled climbing shoes for edging on the arete’s sharp granite features.
Hydrate well; the dry Mexican desert environment demands more water than expected.
Use your rope wisely on the rappel off anchors at the top; double-check knot and anchor integrity.
Bolted protection means a rack of quickdraws and a light anchor setup are all you need. The bolts are well spaced for sustained clipping but expect to clip on the arete's edge, requiring careful attention.
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