"Bolted Route Number 3 offers a solid 100-foot sport climb in Upper Dream Canyon that challenges climbers with a punchy 5.9 crux low on the face. Its accessible terrain and tidy bolting make it ideal for climbers looking to sharpen technique on quality granite near Boulder."
Bolted Route Number 3 carves a straightforward line across the smooth granite faces of Upper Dream Canyon, inviting climbers to engage with its clean sport climbs and subtle features. Located just outside Boulder, Colorado, this single-pitch climb stretches about 100 feet, offering a moderate challenge that balances technical moves with accessible terrain.
The route’s defining moment lies low on the face where a crux section delivers the most demanding moves at 5.9. This segment pushes you to find precise foot placements and rely on controlled body tension—an ideal test for climbers honing their technique without overcommitment. Midway up, a weathered ring pin sparks a moment of reflection; while older and rusty, it still serves as an option to clip or back up with a piece of modern gear, ensuring an extra layer of protection on the otherwise bolted line.
Above the crux, the climbing eases, transitioning into a fun, exposed roof move rated around 5.7. This upper section invites you to engage with smooth holds and an open stance, rewarding you with a tangible sense of accomplishment and a sweeping view of Dream Canyon’s rugged walls. The anchor setup is straightforward, anchored by two solid bolts creating a reliable top-out station with enough room to organize for descent.
Approaching Bolted Route Number 3 is a gentle 10-minute hike over compacted trails starting from the Water Slabs parking area. The path gently winds through pockets of pine and scrub, carrying a subtle scent of dry earth and fresh mountain air as you draw near. The granite here is typical of the Front Range—solid and largely free of loose rock, with sun-exposed slabs that warm quickly in the morning hours.
For this climb, sport climbers should bring a quickdraw rack compatible with 6-8 bolts, plus a light set of trad gear to back up the old ring pin if desired. Footwear with sticky rubber will serve well here, given the smoothed granite holds that require confidence on small edges and pockets. Early spring and fall offer the best conditions to enjoy this route under cooler temperatures and less crowded surroundings.
While the climb encourages a low-key approach, it’s important to stay mindful of the old ring pin’s condition and avoid placing undue force on it. The rock can be sun-drenched but becomes slippery when damp, so timing your ascent after a dry spell is wise. Descend via a two-bolt rap anchor; the rope tends to run cleanly with minimal hang-ups. Ensure your rope length exceeds the route’s 100-foot height for a smooth rappel back to the base.
Bolted Route Number 3 captures the essence of accessible Front Range climbing — a quality line that invites focus without demanding full-throttle effort. It’s an excellent choice for climbers poised to push beyond beginner grades while enjoying the broader wilderness and skyline views Boulder’s Dream Canyon provides.
The old rusty ring pin mid-route should be treated with care—avoid overweighting it and consider placing gear for backup. Granite slabs can become slick if damp or after rain; wait for dry conditions.
Access via Water Slabs parking with a 10-minute hike over well-maintained trails.
Avoid climbing when granite is wet for better friction and grip.
Use caution around the old ring pin; consider backing it up with gear.
Best climbed in spring or fall to avoid intense sun and heat.
Bring 6-8 quickdraws for the bolts, plus a small rack to back up the rusty ring pin mid-route. Sticky shoes are recommended for the granite face.
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