The climb known as Bologna Amputation stakes its claim on the steep faces of Monster Wall in Hampton Marsh, New Brunswick—an adventure that challenges your technique and composure in equal measure. This single-pitch, 65-foot route delivers a compact burst of climbing intensity along a striking arête, blending physical moves with subtle technical demands. Starting with a choice: either inch your way up a narrow chimney through the gully or skirt the small buttress to find the ledge. From here, lean out to clip the first bolt positioned high above, setting the tone for the route’s engaging sequence.

Pull yourself over the arête to confront a bold roof—this is the defining feature of the climb. The roof pull demands a calculated shift, where slight body repositioning to the right can ease the effort needed to surpass it. The route then relaxes into a series of more straightforward moves that lead you to a secure anchor tucked in a protective corner. Climbers will appreciate the clarity of the bolt placements—five quickdraws will keep you well-protected without clutter.

Monster Wall holds a rugged natural character, with its steep rock faces rising sharply from the marshland below. Shade tends to cloak the wall in the afternoons, offering some relief on warmer days, while morning light strikes the climb directly, making it ideal for dawn ascents during summer months. The approach involves careful navigation through mixed terrain, including brush and rock slabs, rewarding early risers with still, crisp air and views across the marsh’s quiet expanse.

For those eyeing Bologna Amputation, it offers a rigorous 5.11d rating that feels precise and deliberate rather than overwhelming, testing finger strength and body positioning more than brute power. The proximity to the ledge allows for a moment to reset if needed, but don’t be fooled—the roof crux is the heart of the challenge. Compared to other local sport climbs, this route is slightly stiffer than average for its grade, demanding focused effort precisely when you’re beginning to feel the pump.

Gear-wise, five bolts ensure solid protection, with quickdraws essential to keep the lead smooth and confident. Due to the high first bolt and roof sequence, climbers should be ready for reachy moves and suggest practicing dynamic clipping techniques to maintain flow. The anchor’s location in a corner offers a secure top-out, though be mindful of loose rock around the ledge area during the descent.

The descent is straightforward—downclimb carefully back to the starting ledge, then retreat on foot via the interpretation of the same approach path. Given the mix of rock and vegetation, sturdy climbing shoes with good edging ability will make both approach and descent less taxing. Hydration and sun protection are advisable during summer visits, while spring and fall bring cooler air and potentially slick surfaces.

Overall, Bologna Amputation is a concentrated offering for climbers seeking a refined, movement-driven challenge amid the raw expansiveness of Monster Wall. It stands as a vivid reminder that short climbs can be both technically rich and deeply satisfying, inviting you to push your limits and engage completely with the rock’s demands.