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Body Snatcher: A Solid 5.9 Trad Challenge in St. Vrain Canyon

Lyons, Colorado United States
body crack
trad crack
single pitch
rappel anchor
granite
st-vrain-canyon
Length: ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Body Snatcher
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Body Snatcher offers a solid 5.9 traditional climb in the South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon. With a wide, body-sized crack and a critical ledge rappel, this route challenges climbers to balance technical gear placement with steady movement across high-quality granite."

Body Snatcher: A Solid 5.9 Trad Challenge in St. Vrain Canyon

Body Snatcher stands as a distinctive test of traditional climbing discipline within the rugged contours of Mushroom Massif, overlooking the South Fork of St. Vrain Canyon. From the first stem into the base of a body-sized crack, climbers confront a deliberate balance of technique and patience, inviting a steady rhythm amid the granite’s commanding presence. As you push over to the north wall, the route opens into a wide crack offering both a physical grip and a mental puzzle — each move measured against an imposing ledge that ties into the neighboring Farmer's Maggot.

This single-pitch climb, rated 5.9, does not rush its audience. Instead, it rewards those prepared with small to large trad gear and a quiet focus on safety and gear placement. The bottom sections demand precise use of small protection like RPs and TCUs while the upper expanse broadens into a crack accommodating substantial pieces, such as #4 and #5 Camalots. The tightening challenge near the top is compounded by the presence of a large, loose flake—prompting most to stop at the ledge and rappel rather than risk continuation.

Approaching Body Snatcher, adventurers move through the South Fork’s pine-dotted slopes, where cool mountain air carries the scent of earth and resin. The access trail is manageable, moderate in grade, and imbued with the quiet persistence of a less-traveled path. The rock itself feels alive under your hands—the granite offers a rough yet reassuring friction as sunlight alternates between full exposure and pockets of shade, depending on the time of day and season.

Climbing here is as much about reading the rock as moving on it. The generous crack system provides solid placements, though the upper section’s fragile flake invites discretion and a cautious exit strategy. Those venturing beyond the safe ledge often find themselves navigating not only the physical terrain but the judgment calls that separate a confident ascent from an unnecessary risk.

For any climber aiming to experience Body Snatcher in its full scope, gear selection and preparation are paramount. Small protective gear lends security early in the route, while larger cams become essential toward the top. Rappelling from the ledge is the recommended descent, often linking to the established anchors atop Raven’s Nest nearby.

This climb is a snapshot of St. Vrain’s raw personality—unyielding yet approachable, calling for respect and offering a singular moment of connection with the canyon’s granite heart. It is perfect for climbers comfortable with middle-grade trad climbs who seek a route that demands clear-headed moves, solid gear choices, and an appreciation for quality rock amid Colorado’s rugged wild.

Prepare for rapidly changing weather and plan your climb during spring through early fall for the most reliable conditions. Footwear with good edge grip will serve you well on the mixed crack and slab sections. Hydration is crucial here, as the sun can intensify the canyon’s warmth even at higher elevation. With these foundations in place, the climb turns into an engaging venture where steadiness and strategy translate into success.

Climber Safety

Avoid climbing beyond the ledge due to a massive loose flake that compromises the top section. Check all gear placements carefully, especially near the flake, and prepare for a rappel descent to ensure safe exit. Loose rock can be a hazard during wet or freeze-thaw conditions.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid afternoon heat on the exposed granite faces.

Bring a full set of small to large cams as protection size varies significantly.

Plan to rappel from the ledge rather than risk the unstable top flake.

Hydrate well on the approach trail as water sources are scarce near the base.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The rating holds firm at 5.9 with a straightforward crux that demands precise stem and crack techniques. The challenge lies less in sustained difficulty and more in gear placement and route-finding, making the grade feel approachable but not soft. Compared to nearby routes like Farmer's Maggot, Body Snatcher offers a slightly more serious and committed trad experience with careful protection requirements.

Gear Requirements

Small protection like RPs and TCUs secure the lower section, while the crack widens for larger cams near the top. Recommended gear includes 2 #4 Camalots, a #3, a #2, and large nuts; bigger #5 or #6 Camalots also fit if preferred. Expect pendulum-quality placements and test your pro thoroughly at the upper flake.

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Tags

body crack
trad crack
single pitch
rappel anchor
granite
st-vrain-canyon