"Blueberry Shake offers a physically demanding trad climb on Lac Clair’s far right cliff edge, starting with a tight chimney before stretching into an offwidth and hand crack. This route challenges with an overhanging squeeze box and requires large cams, rewarded by ledgy rests and solid granite in a remote forest setting."
Blueberry Shake stakes its claim on the far right edge of a rugged cliff face at Lac Clair, presenting a challenging, focused trad climb that demands both technique and respect. The route begins with a tight chimney squeeze, quickly funneling into a narrowing offwidth that tests your body positioning and commitment. As you ascend, the rhythm shifts into hand jams that require steady, confident movement—a pleasing change after the strenuous start. Protection calls for a solid double rack, with an emphasis on larger pieces such as #5 and #6 cams to anchor safely through the initial section, which features an imposing overhanging squeeze box. This crux is the heartbeat of the climb, a physical and mental puzzle framed against the raw granite wall.
Despite the severity of the crux, the climb offers brief reprieves on several ledges before and after, allowing you to catch your breath and strategize the next moves. These rests break the pitch's intensity, balancing effort with opportunity to appreciate the surrounding wilderness. While Serge’s thoughtful addition of glue-in bolts at the top adds a reassuring finish, climbers should stay alert for scattered loose rock—an ever-present concern in these northern cliffs. Fortunately, the route remains cleaner than many in the area, allowing focus on the climbing rather than dodging debris.
Lac Clair’s remote location in Lanaudière, Quebec provides a serene backdrop where the rock feels alive with challenge and history. The cliff’s granite texture offers firm edges and secure hands, but the physical demands mean this climb is best suited to those confident in trad basics and comfortable with offwidth technique. The approach is straightforward, guiding you through mixed forest trails that feel cool and quiet, offering a final connection to the wild before stepping into the vertical realm. Blueberry Shake’s blend of raw power, strategic protection, and the tangible presence of wilderness marks it as a rewarding choice for climbers eager to test their skills on unyielding rock in a setting that feels both expansive and intimate.
Preparation is key: bringing gear focused on large cams ensures secure placements in the variable crack widths, while sturdy footwear and good hydration support both the approach and the climb itself. Timing your ascent for early morning to avoid afternoon heat and instability on loose rock is wise. This route invites climbers to confront its challenges head on, rewarding persistence with adventure and a vivid connection to the mountain. Blueberry Shake is more than a climb—it's an invitation to engage fully with rock, gravity, and the quiet thrill of discovery.
Loose rock is a constant factor here—vigilance during the climb and on approach is essential. While the climb is generally clean, small unstable rocks can pose hazards, especially on the chimney start and near the overhanging section. Helmets and careful route observation are strongly advised.
Bring large cams (#5 and #6) for secure protection in wide crack sections.
Start early to avoid loose rock movement warmed by afternoon sun.
Watch for loose debris near the base and throughout the route.
Respect Serge’s bolted anchors at the top for safe finishes.
A double rack is essential, particularly large cams like #5 and #6, to secure placements in the variable crack widths, especially before reaching the crux squeeze box.
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