"Blue Cab carves a subtly right-leaning crack on Lover’s Leap’s Main Wall, blending delicate jamming and dike friction climbing. This single-pitch trad climb rewards skilled gear placements and offers a technical finish through blocky scrambling to a secure rappel station."
Blue Cab presents an engaging test of trad climbing skill on Lover's Leap’s Main Wall, where the rock’s subtle shifts keep you alert and equipment placements demanding. The route unfolds along a thin, slightly right-leaning crack that appears to fade in places, but close inspection reveals steady protection opportunities nestled within the stone's contours. The passage moves through a blend of delicate jamming techniques interspersed with friction climbing on sharp dike features, requiring hands and gear to work in harmony. Around the 80-foot mark, the line veers left into a more open hands to big hands crack that threads through sparse shrubs. While these plants might initially slow your progress, a little maintenance is welcomed to ease your ascent.
The climbing concludes with a 25-foot scramble up a chunkier, lower-angle blocky section leading to a two-bolt Metolius rappel anchor. The descent demands a 70-meter rope to comfortably reach the ground, with little margin for rope stretch, so planning accordingly is essential. The rock offers a rough, textured surface that grips firmly underfoot, but some care is necessary to avoid loose fragments or hidden debris among the vegetation.
Approach the climb from the well-marked Lover’s Leap parking area and prepare for a moderate walk-in along established trails—expect about 20 minutes of traversing under towering pines and granite outcrops, with intermittent sunshine filtering through the canopy. The northeast-facing wall tends to hold shade through much of the morning, warming up as the day progresses, making spring through fall the best seasons to climb Blue Cab. While 5.9 represents a comfortably challenging rating, the route’s seams and shifting line can catch even seasoned trad climbers off guard.
Bring a standard rack with protection up to a blue Camalot to confidently secure the route; the cracks open just enough to accommodate solid gear despite the appearances. A 70-meter rope is non-negotiable to ensure a safe rappel and descent, especially given the gentle rope stretch in the exposed sections. Due to the route’s location within the Lover’s Leap climbing corridor, expect some foot traffic but less crowding than more popular routes adjacent. Staying hydrated and timing your climb for cooler parts of the day will enhance comfort and control during this focused granite adventure.
Watch for loose debris and fragile shrubs near the crack around 80 feet, and double-check your gear placements in the thinner sections. The rappel anchor, though solid, requires a full 70m rope and care to avoid hanging rap ends on rough granite edges.
Bring a 70m rope to safely rappel from the two-bolt hanger; shorter ropes won’t reach.
Be prepared to clear some shrubs mid-route to ease passage and keep gear visible.
Approach via established trails from the Lover’s Leap parking lot; allow 20 minutes on foot.
Plan your climb for spring through fall when temperatures are moderate and the wall gets morning shade.
Standard trad rack up to a blue Camalot is essential, alongside a 70-meter rope for the rappel. Gear placements open sufficiently even where the crack seems seam-like or discontinuous.
Upload your photos of Blue Cab and earn up to 3000 $ADVCOIN tokens.