"Bloody Monday is a demanding single-pitch trad climb carved into a separate rock mass at Bear Mountain’s edge. With its compelling off-width crack and natural protection needs, this route challenges committed climbers seeking a no-nonsense trad experience."
Bloody Monday stands as a quietly demanding single-pitch climb that offers a rugged introduction to Bear Mountain’s less-traveled corners. This crack climb is found at the extreme right end of the wall on a detached rock formation, distinct from the main slab expanse. It beckons climbers who crave a genuine traditional experience without the distractions of polished routes or heavily trafficked faces. The climb’s main feature, an off-width crack, invites you to engage with the rock in a primal dance, requiring precise body positioning and steady patience to ascend effectively. The heavy crack’s width demands sizable protection, and a #5 Camalot fits snugly within its depths. Meanwhile, a #6 Camalot, while not mandatory, greatly enhances safety, encouraging a strong emphasis on secure placements.
This climb takes place at the base of upper slabs, where the rock’s texture shifts from the smooth expanses above to a chunkier, more angular ride. The stone itself presents an honest test of technique, with edges that reward careful footwork and crack jamming that rejects anything less than commitment. While the route remains concise in length, its position and distinct features make the approach feel like entering a hidden alcove, removed from the more popular sections of Bear Mountain.
Expect the surrounding forest to offer a subtle soundtrack as the wind rustles branches and small birds flit about, punctuating the quiet tension of pushing through this off-width section. The approach is straightforward but requires a sharp eye to find this isolated outcrop. The climb’s overall impression is efficient and pragmatic—ideal for climbers comfortable with their trad skills and eager to expand their repertoire in a raw, untouched setting.
For planning, bring gear that emphasizes larger cams for protection and sturdy shoes with good edging capabilities. Timing your climb earlier in the day will help avoid heat soaking the rock surface, while lighter wind can aid your rhythm without distracting noise. With a modest star rating based on limited repeats, Bloody Monday appeals to those who appreciate no-frills routes that reward focus and patience over flashy maneuvers. This route offers a satisfying, tactile encounter with Bear Mountain’s wilderness, a chance to feel the rock’s character in its unpolished state.
This route protects primarily with large cams in an off-width crack; ensure placements are solid before trusting your bodyweight. The rock is generally solid but inspect for any loose flakes or sharp edges near protection spots. Approach the isolated base carefully due to uneven ground and potential hidden roots.
Approach early in the day for cooler rock conditions and less sun exposure.
Bring larger cams, especially a #6, to confidently protect the off-width.
Check the rock’s surface for any loose flakes before committing to placements.
Wear tough climbing shoes with good edging and toe jamming capability.
A #5 Camalot fits solidly in the crack and protects the off-width section; a #6 Camalot is recommended for added security on this wide seam.
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