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Blood Meridian: A Sharp 5.9 Sport Climb in El Potrero Chico

Nuevo Leon, Mexico
sport climbing
traverse
limestone
single pitch
desert
technical moves
Length: 85 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Blood Meridian
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Blood Meridian is a precise 85-foot sport climb at El Potrero Chico that challenges climbers with a distinctive traverse and confident movement over a low-angle ramp. This one-pitch route is perfect for those looking to refine their sport lead skills in a desert limestone setting."

Blood Meridian: A Sharp 5.9 Sport Climb in El Potrero Chico

Blood Meridian offers climbers a focused, technical challenge in the heart of El Potrero Chico's rugged cliffs. Situated along a large low-angle ramp marked by an orange pole next to the aqueduct, this route stands out for its precise movement and unusual traverse. Starting on a shared bolt line with nearby Golden Puff, you’ll find yourself engaging dynamic, confident moves as the climb veers over the right side of a roof before shifting dynamically left on a distinctive traverse toward the leftmost anchor. The rock here is solid and sun-baked, providing reliable friction on the bolts, but the traverse demands control and precise footwork, keeping the climber alert. This single-pitch route, stretching 85 feet, condenses a technical experience into a manageable session, ideal for climbers wanting to sharpen their sport lead skills in this high-energy desert environment. The surrounding cliffs rise sharply over dry canyon terrain, dotted with hardy desert vegetation, while the crackling arid air tests your hydration just as much as the climbing itself. Morning climbs avoid the full heat, making early starts wise, especially during the spring and fall months when temperatures are moderate. El Potrero Chico’s expansive limestone walls and vibrant local climbing community offer an unbeatable combination of atmosphere and challenge. Expect a polished feel from this route’s bolt-protected line and bring your sport rack with confidence—this climb demands steady focus but rewards with a clean, direct finish. Whether wrapping up a long day exploring the area or seeking a standout pitch for your sport collection, Blood Meridian delivers a concise, engaging testing ground for climbers ready to read feet and flow through its unusual traverse.

Climber Safety

The traverse section requires careful clipping to avoid awkward falls; loose rock is minimal, but be mindful of foot placement on the low-angle ramp as some edges are sharp. Avoid climbing in peak afternoon sun to reduce dehydration risk.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length85 feet

Local Tips

Start early to avoid the midday desert heat and gain better friction on warm rock.

Bring plenty of water—this area is dry and exposed.

Double-check your draws during the traverse for smooth clips.

Wear sticky shoes with good edging ability to handle the low-angle slab sections.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 grade on Blood Meridian feels honest with a technical edge, especially due to the unique traverse crux near the roof. While the moves are not overwhelmingly strenuous, the route demands trusting footholds and steady body positioning, making it a fitting test for intermediate sport climbers. Compared to nearby routes, it offers a more sustained focus on technique over pure power.

Gear Requirements

The climb is fully bolted with solid anchors at the top. No trad gear required; sport rack with quickdraws is sufficient. The bolts are well-spaced but demand precise clipping during the traverse section.

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Tags

sport climbing
traverse
limestone
single pitch
desert
technical moves