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Blind Man's Bluff: A Classic Trad Ascent on Higher Cathedral Rock

Yosemite Village, California United States
trad
multi-pitch
offwidth
knobs
flake climbing
Yosemite
granite
route-finding
Length: 700 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
4
Location
Blind Man's Bluff
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Blind Man's Bluff weaves technical face climbing with challenging crack systems on Yosemite’s Higher Cathedral Rock. This four-pitch trad climb demands sharp route-finding and steady gear placement, offering a rewarding blend of adventure and classic granite climbing."

Blind Man's Bluff: A Classic Trad Ascent on Higher Cathedral Rock

Blind Man's Bluff offers a compelling trad climbing experience in Yosemite’s Higher Cathedral Rock sector, inviting climbers to engage with its rugged, knob-studded face and intricate crack systems. Starting just left of Braille Book, this route demands both careful route-finding and solid protection skills, making it a satisfying challenge that balances adventure with technical climbing. The climb’s face moves rely on large, positive features that feel accessible yet require attention to foot placements and balance. A key early section involves ascending a system of detached flakes—take heed of loose rock here—to reach an offwidth crack beneath a striking roof, before maneuvering a delicate stem traverse and ascending a crack trending left. Protection is sparse but sufficient, with placement opportunities to 3 inches, although managing rope drag on this longer pitch becomes a tactical part of the ascent.

Pitch two begins above a steep flake and follows a corner system rated 5.9, a crux that demands precise technique and confidence. After negotiating the corner, climbers move across a runout face toward another left-facing corner and distinct roof, continuing through easier terrain to reach a ledge crowned by pinnacles and chockstones—a natural resting point with good pro options.

The third pitch tests your ability to navigate beneath a bulge, traverse left, and pull onto the arete just right of a roof. Here, route choices multiply; one popular finish heads up and left to a bolted anchor (supplemented with mosquito hooks), part of the Remain In Light route, followed by an exposed move through loose flakes. This leads to large ledges and a tree where you link with Braille Book and surrounding climbs in the area.

The final pitch uses Braille Book’s 5.4 face to reach the summit, providing a moderate conclusion to an adventurous day on the wall. The descent is a standard walk-off, guiding climbers safely back to the valley floor without additional technical gear.

This climb rewards those ready for a hands-on, traditional experience with its mix of face and crack climbing, peppered with moments of thoughtful gear placement and route reading. It’s a fantastic option for trad climbers seeking a route that combines Yosemite’s classic granite features with accessible commitment and an unforgettable setting under the iconic Cathedral Spires.

Climber Safety

Loose flakes near the start require careful movement and testing holds before committing. Be vigilant placing pro to avoid potentially large falls, especially given the absence of bolts. Watch for potential rope drag on the longer pitches and manage placements accordingly.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches4
Length700 feet

Local Tips

Start just left of Braille Book, looking for a flaky outside corner with loose sections.

Expect some rope drag on pitch one; place pro thoughtfully to minimize it.

The 5.9 corner on pitch two is the climb’s crux—warm up beforehand if possible.

Descend by walking off the standard route used by Braille Book; no rappelling required.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Rated 5.9, Blind Man's Bluff sits comfortably in the intermediate trad range. The grade feels true with the key technical crux on pitch two’s corner. The climb’s challenges lie more in route-finding and gear management than physical difficulty, making it a great step-up from easier Yosemite granite routes like The Flakes on MCR, yet less committing than longer multi-pitch walls in the area.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full trad rack up to 3 inches, with emphasis on medium cams for offwidth and finger cracks. No bolts make solid pro placement essential, especially on the longer initial pitch to reduce rope drag.

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Tags

trad
multi-pitch
offwidth
knobs
flake climbing
Yosemite
granite
route-finding