"Blades of Glory offers a concise but technical trad climb in Owens River Gorge, featuring a bold traverse crux and delicate crack finish. A solid choice for climbers looking to sharpen crack skills in a dramatic granite setting just minutes from Bishop."
Blades of Glory offers a short but intense climb tucked into the rugged cliffs of the Owens River Gorge, a favorite playground for trad climbers seeking solid climbing with moments of technical flair. This route ascends an 80-foot wall just left of the well-known Clip Jockeys, demanding focus and precision on its varied features. Expect to start on a scree slope before committing to a clean line defined by two cracks rising sharply to meet a steep 5-bolt face.
The climb begins by following the right crack, a route that rewards steady footwork and solid gear placements. Progression leads directly into a sequence of bolts that guard a tricky traverse near the fourth bolt. Here, the crux emerges: a careful move right, where the rock tightens and balance becomes essential. The final pitch finishes with a delicate thin crack requiring controlled finesse to send. Protection is a mix of five bolts and traditional gear sized up to 1.5 inches, emphasizing small but confident placements.
Owens River Gorge is a place where the rock speaks—granite faces sculpted by years of wind and water—and Blades of Glory captures that raw energy in a manageable yet engaging climb. The route’s exposed line offers views across the narrow gorge, framed by the Sierra Nevada’s eastern escarpment. The scree slope approach is short but loose, so tread carefully with sturdy footwear and avoid the temptation to rush.
Timing your climb early in the day is ideal to enjoy cooler temperatures on the shaded wall. This area, known for consistent weather during spring through fall, can become hot under the sun’s full blast, especially in summer. Hydration and sun protection are vital to staying comfortable. The route is frequently bolted but the gear placements require an attentive partner and a keen eye to ensure secure anchor points. The Mussy Hook anchor tops the climb, providing a reliable descent station.
Whether you’re stepping up from moderate trad routes or sharpening crack skills before bigger objectives, Blades of Glory delivers a compact dose of Owens Gorge’s granite character with practical challenges worth the effort. Don’t underestimate the traverse—its subtle trickiness is the climb’s defining feature and a great test of route-finding mid-climb.
The wider Owens River Gorge boasts an array of climbing options from sport to traditional lines, all set within a corridor of dramatic eastern Sierra cliffs. Familiarity with the approach trails and the gorge’s layout will enhance your experience here. After topping out, prepare for a straightforward but careful scramble down the rocky slope—loose rock demands attention on the descent.
In sum, Blades of Glory offers an accessible adventure packed with enough technical interest to keep the focus sharp and adrenaline steady, all enveloped in the gorge’s raw granite landscape that dares you to push a little harder and climb cleaner.
The approach slope is steep and loose, requiring careful footing to avoid slips. The traverse section demands careful gear placements and deliberate movement—don’t rush this key sequence. Also, be mindful of sun exposure once the wall shifts into direct sunlight.
Start early to beat heat since the wall gains sunlight midday.
Wear shoes with solid edging for secure footing on the loose scree approach.
Double-check your protection placements during the traverse; it’s the route’s trickiest move.
Bring sunscreen and ample water—shade is minimal after mid-morning.
This route requires a standard trad rack to 1.5 inches to protect the crack sections, supplemented with five bolts securing the steep face and traverse. Pro placements are generally solid but favor smaller cams and nuts. The descent uses a fixed Mussy Hook anchor at the top.
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