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Blackstar at Breakfast Club Peak: A Bold Ascent in El Potrero Chico

Nuevo Leon, Mexico
5.10d
sport climbing
multi-pitch
runout
exposed
El Potrero Chico
Nuevo Leon
Length: 250 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
3
Location
Blackstar
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Blackstar offers an intense three-pitch sport climb at El Potrero Chico, rated 5.10d PG13, combining technical climbing on blocky ledges with exposed runout sections near the summit. Early starts and solid gear prep are key for this bold ascent north of Nuevo Leon."

Blackstar at Breakfast Club Peak: A Bold Ascent in El Potrero Chico

Rising sharply out of the rugged terrain of El Potrero Chico, Blackstar offers a compelling sport climb that challenges climbers with its bold pitches and striking vertical features. Starting before dawn at 5 a.m., you set off from Breakfast Club Peak, descending into the shadowed garden beneath the east face of Breakfast Pillar. This cool start not only helps avoid the midday heat but sets a quiet, focused tone for the climb ahead.

Blackstar launches to the right of a pronounced corner, welcoming you into a world of blocky ledges and intimate corners that test technical skill and route-finding savvy. The rock formation feels alive here—its sharp edges and textured surfaces invite you up, while the vertical ribbon of stone above P2 serves as a stark marker beckoning you onward.

Pitch one clamps down with a tough 5.10d crux, protected by nine well-placed draws. The line demands precision and commitment, with runners clipped into stainless-steel fixes that assure trust in the hardware but respect for the intricacies of movement. The climb flows into a second pitch that mirrors the first in difficulty and length, holding on through ninety-odd feet of sustained climbing, while the last pitch offers a breather at 5.8 but requires careful approach as you step off the final ribbon onto the summit block. Here, the exposure intensifies, and a few slings come in handy for runners wary of the runout sections—an invitation to steady nerves and focus.

Beyond the technical challenge, this climb's setting stirs the spirit. The broad northern Mexican skies stretch overhead, shades shifting as the sun travels, the cliffs anticipating the heat of the day. The crag’s rocky shoulders catch the first light, and the wind whispers through nearby pinon pines, making each hold feel like a handshake from the mountain.

For those preparing to send Blackstar, gear up with a full set of quickdraws—about 26—to match the bolted protection, and bring a pair of slings to manage the runouts on pitch three. The approach trail is straightforward though rocky, making sturdy shoes essential, and setting off early will let you avoid the stronger afternoon sun and the flurry of activity typical at El Potrero Chico.

Safety is paramount on this route. The bolts are reliable stainless steel, but the spacing on the last pitch introduces runout territory where slip consequences grow. Stay sharp, communicate clearly with your partner, and respect the challenge posed by the exposed summit corner. This climber’s playground rewards calm assessment and steady execution.

Whether you’re chasing the sharp crescendo of a sharp 5.10d climb or drawn by the prospect of an intimate line in one of Nuevo Leon’s premier climbing areas, Blackstar promises a blend of technical climbing blended with approachable access and wholesome isolation. This route carves out a special place in the El Potrero Chico lineup, drawing climbers eager to test themselves amid stunning northern Mexico landscapes, where rock and sky merge to challenge and inspire.

Climber Safety

While the bolts are solid stainless steel, the final pitch introduces significant runout terrain where a fall could lead to a swing or ground fall. Be sure to place slings around gear or use extended draws to reduce rope drag and stay vigilant about communication with your belayer throughout the climb.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches3
Length250 feet

Local Tips

Start your approach before 5 a.m. to avoid midday heat and secure a quiet climb.

Wear sturdy shoes for the rocky terrain on the access trail.

Carry extra slings to back up runout spots on the final pitch for added safety.

Hydrate well and bring sun protection; the wall faces east and receives full sun by mid-morning.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10d PG13
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10d rating is genuine and sustained across the first two pitches, pushing climbers through technical sequences and requiring focused movement. The third pitch steps down to 5.8 but comes with more exposure and runout, demanding mental control. Overall, the grade feels true to the Bolted El Potrero Chico standard, with no padding—climbers should be comfortable climbing in the low 5.10s to send this route cleanly.

Gear Requirements

Fully bolted with stainless steel 1/2" x 2.75" Powers rawl anchors and stainless Climbtech hangers. Bring approximately 26 quickdraws to clip all bolts and 2 slings for managing runout sections on pitch three.

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Tags

5.10d
sport climbing
multi-pitch
runout
exposed
El Potrero Chico
Nuevo Leon