HomeClimbingBlack Widow

Black Widow: A Classic Trad Challenge at Low Profile Dome

Groveland, California United States
trad
alpine
granite
runout
two-pitch
Yosemite
crack climbing
trad gear
small cams
tricams
Length: 200 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
2
Location
Black Widow
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Black Widow offers a focused two-pitch trad climb on the granite of Low Profile Dome in Yosemite’s Tuolumne Meadows. Featuring a moderate first pitch followed by a runout 5.9 R second pitch, it challenges climbers to master gear placement and movement on alpine granite."

Black Widow: A Classic Trad Challenge at Low Profile Dome

Tucked within Yosemite National Park’s iconic Tuolumne Meadows, Black Widow stakes its claim as a compact yet memorable two-pitch trad climb on Low Profile Dome. The route offers a satisfying mix of moderate crack work and delicate face moves, inviting climbers into a focused experience that balances technical skill with natural exposure. The first pitch sets the stage with solid 5.7 climbing on knobby rock, navigating cracks that comfortably accept nuts and cams, leading to a gear belay that affords both respite and a connection to the towering granite above.

The second pitch intensifies the adventure, stepping up to 5.9R where careful judgment defines the ascent. Gear becomes increasingly sparse after passing two bolts and a lone piton, requiring climbers to rely on smaller cams and tricams nestled in tight pockets. The moves here are thoughtfully spaced, demanding finesse without overly punishing the lead. Beyond the second bolt, the challenge eases slightly but the protection thins, reminding climbers to stay sharp and deliberate in placing gear.

Black Widow’s 200-foot length stretches across two pitches, offering comfortable stance spots and belay anchors equipped with rap rings for a straightforward descent. The rock is typical Tuolumne granite—solid, coarse, and punctuated with knobs that provide both holds and protection placements. The route’s location in the high country means climbers should expect rapidly changing weather and cool alpine air, especially in early spring and fall.

Visually, the route is framed by sweeping alpine meadows below and rugged peaks beyond, where the wilderness feels expansive yet accessible. The climb’s orientation catches morning sun, making early starts ideal before the afternoon heats the slab. For those plotting their trip, sturdy footwear with sticky rubber is essential for the slabby sections while a rack stocked with nuts, cams up to 3 inches, and a selection of small cams and tricams will cover the protection needs.

Black Widow suits climbers looking to sharpen their trad climbing skills in an environment that remains engaging without pushing into the extremes of Yosemite’s harder walls. It’s an excellent route for those transitioning from sport or single-pitch routes into longer trad climbs, offering the thrill of placing gear in clean rock with a remote wilderness feel. Though rated 5.9 R, the route’s runouts invite cautious climbing, emphasizing control and route-finding.

Approach-wise, access is a straightforward walk from the Tuolumne Meadows campground area, a roughly 25-minute hike on established trails that meander through open meadows and scattered pines. This easy approach means climbers can plan for morning ascents without packing heavy overnight gear, perfect for day trips that combine nature immersion with technical challenge.

In sum, Black Widow stands as a practical choice for climbers craving classic Tuolumne granite, scenic alpine surroundings, and a test of gear placement savvy. This route captures the essence of Yosemite’s high-country trad climbing with enough grit and grace to make it a worthy objective any season the snow has melted and the weather holds steady.

Climber Safety

Be aware that the second pitch protection thins notably after the second bolt, requiring careful gear placement and controlled climbing. Falling on this pitch can result in long pendulums. Weather can shift rapidly; ensure you have a weather window to avoid afternoon storms.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches2
Length200 feet

Local Tips

Start early to take advantage of morning sun on the wall and avoid afternoon heat.

Pay close attention to gear placements on pitch two where protection is sparse.

Wear climbing shoes with sticky rubber for optimal friction on slabby granite knobs.

Watch the weather—storms can arrive quickly in Tuolumne Meadows, especially in shoulder seasons.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9 R
Quality
Consensus:The 5.9 R rating reflects a climb that’s moderate in technical difficulty but demanding in mental focus. The second pitch’s runouts push the seriousness of the grade, requiring steady nerve and precise gear placement. It feels a bit ‘soft’ technically compared to some stiffer 5.9 climbs in Yosemite, but the sparse protection raises the overall challenge.

Gear Requirements

Bring a full set of nuts and cams up to 3 inches. The first pitch is well protected with standard gear, but the second requires smaller cams and tricams for the pockets, plus quickdraws for the two bolts and piton.

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Tags

trad
alpine
granite
runout
two-pitch
Yosemite
crack climbing
trad gear
small cams
tricams