HomeClimbingBlack Sheep

Black Sheep Trad Climb on Orange Pillar in Patricia Bowl

Mammoth Lakes,California ,United States
off-width
finger crack
bolt anchor
Sierra granite
single-pitch
moderate trad
Grade: 5.10a
Length: 70 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Black Sheep
Aspect
South Facing

Black Sheep

5.10a, Trad

Mammoth Lakes

California ,United States

Overview

"Black Sheep offers a demanding yet rewarding trad climb along a distinctive left-facing crack in the Patricia Bowl. Its technical off-width crux and secure bolt anchor make it a compelling choice for crack climbers seeking a moderate single-pitch challenge in the Sierra Eastside."

Black Sheep Trad Climb on Orange Pillar in Patricia Bowl

Set against the granite walls of Orange Pillar, Black Sheep commands attention with its rugged lines and distinct hand crack challenges. This single-pitch, 70-foot trad route sits within the Patricia Bowl, a quiet sector of the Rock Creek area on California’s Sierra Eastside. Here, the rock is raw, offering a real test of crack climbing skills amidst the stark, alpine landscape. The route opens with a broad left-facing crack that quickly narrows into a finger crack tucked inside the off-width—a clever natural design that softens what could otherwise be an intimidating start. As you ascend, the crack widens beyond manageable finger jams around the halfway point, introducing a demanding overlap that tests your technique and composure. This crux forces you to find balance between power and finesse, transitioning smoothly into a sequence of hand jams that lead to a shared bolt anchor, perched firmly for a secure belay.

Approaching Black Sheep is as much a part of the experience as the climb itself. The trail leading into Patricia Bowl is straightforward but involves a steady uphill through rocky terrain typical of the Mammoth Lakes backcountry. The climb demands solid crack climbing fundamentals, especially in managing off-width and finger jams simultaneously—gear placements up to 3.5 inches are essential, and the bolt anchor offers peace of mind at the top. With a moderate 5.10a rating, Black Sheep fits neatly in the range where climbers can challenge their technique without overly taxing raw power.

This climb invites a close dialogue with the rock—each jam and layback echoes the line of movement etched in granite. The dry Sierra air, punctuated by distant pines, sets a crisp backdrop, and when afternoon light angles across the face, the textures and features become vividly apparent. It’s a blend of technical puzzle and physical endeavor, giving climbers a rewarding taste of traditional crack climbing in a landscape that pushes you both mentally and physically.

Preparedness is key: carry the right sized cams and maintain steady hydration and tireless patience. The location’s elevation means weather can shift quickly; mornings offer cooler temperatures ideal for keeping friction high, while afternoon sun warms the route but can demand stamina. Black Sheep’s relatively short length and defined crux make it a perfect objective for a climbing day that balances adventure with accessible challenge—the kind of climb that leaves you feeling earned but eager to return.

Climber Safety

The overlap section can be tricky for gear placements—make sure to test each cam placement for security. The rock is generally solid but watch for any loose flakes near the anchor. Keep an eye on weather; the alpine environment can bring sudden changes requiring prompt descent.

Route Specifications

Route Details

5.10a
TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length70 feet

Local Tips

Start early to take advantage of cooler morning temperatures which improve friction on the granite.

Approach via the well-marked trail through Patricia Bowl; allow 30–45 minutes from the parking area.

Carry a lubricating tape or gloves designed for crack climbing to protect skin during hand jams.

Check weather forecasts closely—summer afternoons can bring rapid afternoon storms common in the Sierra.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a rating feels accurate, with a notably challenging crux at the overlap where the crack widens. While the lower portion is approachable with finger jams, the middle section demands refined technique and solid placements. Compared with nearby routes, Black Sheep sits comfortably as a moderate trad climb that can push climbers refining off-width skills without stepping into more sustained or strenuous grades.

Gear Requirements

Essential trad gear includes cams sized up to 3.5 inches to handle the variable width of the crack. A bolt anchor secures the top belay. Bring a standard rack focusing on larger cams for off-width protection and finger-sized pieces for the lower section.

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Tags

off-width
finger crack
bolt anchor
Sierra granite
single-pitch
moderate trad