5.9, Trad
Tahoe City
California ,United States
"Black September offers a focused test of crack climbing on a clean, slightly right-leaning handcrack at Donner Summit. This single-pitch trad climb melds solid gear placements with sustained hands jam climbing, perfect for climbers seeking a tactile challenge near Lake Tahoe."
Black September carves a vertical line up California’s rugged Donner Summit, inviting climbers into an exacting dance of hand jams and finger locks along its striking crack. The route demands steady technique, starting with a brisk scramble up a smooth 5.0 ramp that offers neither protection nor much relief. This opening crawl of about 30 feet sets the stage for the main event: 80 feet of slightly right-leaning crack climbing where perfectly contoured hands find their home. With gear placements plenty yet focused on hand-sized pieces, the climb balances security with an unyielding physical challenge. The rock’s clean faces provide supplemental holds, offering moments to rest the grip before continuing upwards. Sunlight filters through sparse trees, spotlighting the crack and lending clarity to each move, while the fresh mountain air carries the subtle pine scent of the surrounding forest. Anchoring is straightforward with a solid belay station constructed from standard trad gear, but a bolted anchor nearby on Summer Breeze offers a reliable option for rappel with a 60-meter rope. The descent involves some easy downscrambling, allowing climbers to savor the route’s climb before stepping back into the rugged wilderness. With a grade of 5.9, Black September challenges climbers to fuse precision with endurance, making it a rewarding objective for those looking to test their crack climbing skills in the Lake Tahoe region’s wild heart.
Be cautious on the initial unprotected 5.0 ramp; it requires commitment since falls here aren’t protected. Inspect gear placements thoroughly, especially in tight crack sections where secure hand-sized cams are essential. Watch for loose rock during the downscramble from the anchor and approach safely to minimize risk.
Approach involves a short scramble up a 5.0 ramp without protection—move carefully and stay balanced.
Hand-sized cams dominate placements; bring a full set of cams in those sizes for best security.
Early starts help avoid warming sun on the face in summer; shade is limited on the route itself.
After the climb, downscramble carefully from the anchor; loose rock can be present near the descent.
Use the Summer Breeze bolted anchor for a safe and convenient rappel if lowering is preferred.
Bring a standard trad rack but prioritize hand-sized pieces for secure placements. The route features a gear belay anchor, although a bolted anchor on nearby Summer Breeze allows for a rappel with a 60-meter rope. Expect to place protection regularly throughout the crack length.
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