HomeClimbingBlack Rabbit

Black Rabbit Climb at Alice Rock

Twentynine Palms, California United States
arete
grainy rock
slab finish
bolt protected
single pitch
desert climb
technical footwork
Length: 60 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Black Rabbit
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Black Rabbit is a sharp, 60-foot sport climb on a clean arete in Joshua Tree's Comic Book Area. The route blends precise footwork on grainy slab with secure bolted protection, offering a focused and stylish challenge for climbers refining their 5.10a skills."

Black Rabbit Climb at Alice Rock

Black Rabbit offers climbers a sharp blend of technical challenge and sleek movement along a distinct arete at the Comic Book Area of Joshua Tree National Park. This single-pitch sport route stretches over 60 feet of rock that demands focus and precision, rewarding those who engage with its compact verticality. The climb starts with solid positioning on positive holds hugging the arete, setting a confident tone before transitioning into a pure slab finish where balance and footwork become paramount. The stone carries a grainy texture, lending just enough friction to steady your footing without overwhelming the senses. As the sun climbs overhead, the rock absorbs warmth, adding a subtle tactile contrast that connects you directly to the desert environment. Whether you are dialing into the 5.10a grade or honing technique on slab moves, Black Rabbit is a perfect expression of Joshua Tree’s classic spirit—defined, quiet, and approachable for climbers who enjoy methodical movement and clean lines.

Approaching this route involves a brief hike in the Comic Book Area, where scattered boulders and low desert flora paint a minimalist scene. The trail is short but rock-strewn; solid shoes and attention on footing will ease your approach. Anchors are safely bolted, with four bolts securing the route and a two-bolt anchor rigged for rappel, allowing straightforward descent. Since the climb lacks extensive fixed protection, bringing standard sport quickdraws and a pair of mid-length runners is ideal to ensure smooth clipping and rope management.

Beyond the climb itself, Black Rabbit’s location at Joshua Tree provides a quiet wilderness backdrop with vast, sun-drenched views and the occasional breeze rustling through sparse chaparral. Early morning or late afternoon sessions deliver the best temperatures, as midday sun can bake the rock surface, making it less forgiving underfoot. The route’s southwest-facing aspect catches direct light through the day but partially shades near the anchor zone, presenting a dynamic thermal experience as you climb upward.

For safety, keep an eye on the grainy texture which, while helpful in friction, can collect loose sand or small pebbles—always clear your footholds and handholds before weighting them fully. The wall’s moderate angle reduces fall severity but demands smooth, controlled moves to minimize swing potential near the arete’s edges. Don’t underestimate the slab finish; preserving energy on steady foot placements will carry you to the anchors with less struggle.

Black Rabbit strikes a balance between a focused sport route and a stylish desert climb. It invites climbers seeking a compact, accessible challenge that hones slab technique and mental composure. This climb is a rewarding stopoff for Joshua Tree visitors wanting to sharpen skills in a well-protected setting with iconic desert character woven into every move.

Climber Safety

Watch for loose sand and small pebbles on footholds, particularly on the slab finish. Maintain controlled movements to prevent slips near the arete’s edges, and always double-check your anchor before descent.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length60 feet

Local Tips

Start early or late in the day to avoid the hottest sun on the rock.

Clear dirt and small debris off holds for maximum friction.

Wear approach shoes with good grip for the short, rocky trail.

Bring mid-length quickdraws to keep the rope running smoothly along the arete.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.10a
Quality
Consensus:The 5.10a rating aligns well with Black Rabbit’s slab-focused demands, feeling mostly true to grade. The crux centers on delicate foot placements in the final slab section, requiring balance and precision rather than raw power. Compared to nearby Comic Book routes, it offers a slightly more refined, technique-driven experience.

Gear Requirements

Four bolts protect the climb with a two-bolt anchor set up for rappelling. Bring quickdraws for smooth clipping; spacing is typical with no awkward reaches. The protection is straightforward and reliable for the route's length and style.

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Tags

arete
grainy rock
slab finish
bolt protected
single pitch
desert climb
technical footwork