"Black Rabbit offers a sharply technical single-pitch trad climb on the distinctive granite of Necromancer Needle. Its narrow, thin cracks and delicate toe jams demand careful gear placements and steady footwork, making it a rewarding challenge for climbers seeking precision and focus in the Southern Sierra."
Carved into the rugged contours of Necromancer Needle, Black Rabbit challenges climbers with a sharp focus on balance and finesse. This single-pitch trad route offers a pathway over approximately 80 feet of vertical granite, guided by a narrow, technical seam that demands precision and commitment. From the moment climbers set foot on the shallow left-facing dihedral, they are met with a rhythm of stemming and careful placements that test both technique and mental steadiness.
The rock here bears the marks of time with clean edges and flaring finger cracks—a feature that injects a dose of difficulty as you pull over the initial bulge. The finger crack above isn’t wide or deep; it requires confident toe jams and delicate hand work to navigate insecure flares. It’s a climb that rewards patience and creativity in gear placements, as protection options are selective and demand a well-rounded rack.
Compared to nearby classics like Dave’s Deviation at Tahquitz Rock, which grades out around 5.9, Black Rabbit leans on the side of greater challenge, pushing climbers just beyond the comfortable zone into a sharper, more technical style of crack climbing. The climb unfolds in a boulder-strewn, dry desert environment at The Needles, where the granite’s texture varies from smooth faces to gripping cracks, pitched beneath wide skies that shift from afternoon sun to the cooling shade as the day progresses.
For the practical climber, the approach to Black Rabbit is straightforward: a short hike through rocky paths that reward with views of the Kern River Valley and the surrounding Southern Sierra landscape. It’s a route that fits perfectly into a day of moderate adventure, well suited for those looking to refine their crack techniques or test their edge on a sustained technical pitch. Gear needs are specific; cams from micro to mid-range sizes paired with thin nuts form the backbone of a safe ascent.
This route’s gear demands highlight the importance of precise placement: thin nuts must fit snugly in seams that sting with their narrow profiles, while cams between #0 TCU and 1 Camalot offer security on the more protected sections. Two bolt rap anchors crown the top, providing a stable and reliable descent point. The climb’s protection setup rewards preparedness and finesse, underscoring the necessity of thorough inspection and practice before stepping onto the rock.
Black Rabbit isn’t just a climb—it’s an opportunity to engage intimately with the stone, to feel each jam and stem as both a physical and mental puzzle. The desert air weighs lightly on the skin, punctuated by distant bird calls and the occasional stirring of wind through dry brush. It’s a climb that invites respect, keen observation, and the quiet satisfaction of mastering a subtle challenge where every movement counts.
For those venturing to Necromancer Needle, this climb blends the raw essence of traditional crack climbing with the scenic isolation of The Needles area. It demands control and confidence, rewarding climbers willing to commit to its thin seam with the joy of standing atop a distinct and characterful line. In every sense, Black Rabbit is a measured, technical ascent that honors the spirit of its rugged californian setting while sharpening the climber’s skills with each precise move.
Watch for thin, potentially loose rock around the bulge and flared crack sections; careful gear placement is critical due to sparse and delicate protection options. The approach involves uneven footing, so secure footing and cautious navigation are advised to avoid slips before the climb begins.
Approach via a short but uneven trail; sturdy boots recommended for the rocky terrain.
Start early to avoid the midday sun which can heat the granite significantly.
Bring a sleek rack focusing on smaller cams and thin nuts for effective placements.
Check for loose rock near the bulge and finger crack sections before committing.
Protection consists of thin nuts (#4-8 Black Diamond stoppers) complemented by a set of double cams ranging from #0 TCU to 0.5 Camalot, plus single placements at 0.75 and 1 Camalot. The route features a 2-bolt rappel anchor at the top for descent.
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