"Black Primo delivers a compelling two-pitch climb on the black-streaked faces of Ophir Wall, mixing trad and sport techniques through bold rock with calculated protection. This route offers a direct challenge balanced by solid anchors and a stunning Colorado backdrop."
Black Primo challenges climbers with a blend of trad and sport techniques across two engaging pitches in the rugged landscape of Colorado’s Ophir Wall. Beginning on a water-streaked black face, this route offers a measured introduction to sustained climbing with carefully placed bolts that punctuate the steady vertical ascent. As you start from the top of pitch one on Hot Wee Wee, you transition onto a bolted variation on the face just left of the main corner, navigating past two bolts before reaching a secure ledge anchored for your belay. Pitch two continues upward with similar terrain, moving past two more bolts to the bolted anchor perched at the route’s summit.
The climb demands both mental focus and practical gear skills, as the rating of 5.9 R reflects the runout sections where careful protection placement is key. Supplementing the fixed bolts, small nuts and cams offer a crucial safety net, especially given the exposed nature of some moves. The black streaks on the rock tell of persistent water flow, adding a slight sheen that can test your grip and requires attentive footwork.
Set against the backdrop of the Telluride/Norwood area, the approach is straightforward but calls for a steady hike with a moderate elevation gain through forested trails that lead you to the imposing Main Wall. At roughly 200 feet in length, Black Primo provides enough sustained climbing to challenge your endurance but remains accessible to those honing their trad techniques.
Descending follows a sensible pattern: rappelling the route is recommended, with options to descend via Hot Wee Wee or move climber’s right after the rappel to find a comfortable path back down. Weather conditions here can shift quickly, making it vital to check forecasts and time your climb to avoid afternoon storms.
Black Primo’s mix of fixed protection and opportunities for traditional gear, combined with its bold rating, compels climbers to balance adventure with caution. This climb is perfect for those who seek exposure and sustained movement without the commitment of a longer multi-pitch giant. It rewards those armed with solid rack knowledge and mental steadiness, placing you face-to-face with Colorado’s rugged terrain in a way that amplifies both its beauty and respect for the rock.
For anyone heading to Ophir Wall, Black Primo serves as a striking example of the area’s unique climbing character—a route that asks you to stay sharp, move deliberately, and savor the elemental interaction between body, gear, and stone.
The presence of runout zones combined with wet patches on the black water-streaked rock means climbers should augment the fixed bolts with well-placed nuts and cams. Rappelling carefully and scouting descent options ahead of time are crucial to avoid mishaps.
Start early to avoid afternoon storms common in the area during summer.
Wear shoes with sticky rubber to handle the slightly slick water-streaked rock.
Bring a standard trad rack focusing on small cams and nuts for supplementing bolt placements.
Expect some runout sections—stay attentive and place gear proactively.
Two bolts per pitch anchor the route, but bringing small nuts and cams is essential to supplement protection on runout sections.
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