"Black Plague is a compact, technical trad climb tucked into Joshua Tree’s Rock Garden Valley. Climbing a flared offwidth chimney, it challenges climbers with subtle holds and precise gear placements, all framed by stark desert vistas."
Black Plague stands as a gritty test for trad climbers seeking a stark, hands-on experience on the right side of Rock Garden Valley. This single pitch climbs 65 feet through a sequence that defies easy rhythm. Instead of veering left into the more straightforward hand crack alcove, Black Plague invites you to face a steep gully crowned by a flared offwidth that demands patience and precise body positioning. The route widens into a chimney section, where seasoned climbers wrestle with faint edges and tricky smears — those subtle smears feel like the rock itself resists your hold, keeping the challenge elevated right up to the bulge on the left. It’s a climb that rewards careful gear placements, with protection stretching up to 5 inches, requiring solid trad skills and comfort with less obvious holds.
Situated in Joshua Tree National Park, this route embodies the park’s rugged spirit: sharp rock, expansive views, and an unpolished line that feels raw and unfiltered. The Rock Garden Valley area itself is known for its varied climbs, but Black Plague forces you to engage with the rock’s textures directly — every move demands balance and focus. The route’s 5.9- rating tends toward the easier side of that spectrum, but the technical nature of the offwidth and chimney sections often bump up the effort compared to more straightforward hand cracks in the area.
Approaching the climb involves a short hike from the Lost Horse trailhead, through a landscape patterned with weathered boulders and desert scrub. The trail is clear but rocky, requiring sturdy footwear and attention. Plans should include plenty of water, sun protection, and timing your climb either early morning or late afternoon to avoid the desert’s midday heat. The wall faces primarily northwest, granting some afternoon shade—a welcome reprieve in warmer months.
Anchor placement is straightforward but critical. The gear anchor at the top is reliable but more exposed than some nearby routes, so double-check all placements. The descent calls for a single 60-meter rappel back to the base; staying aware of loose rock and footing here keeps your exit smooth and safe.
Whether you’re brushing up trad skills or hunting a unique line that’s just off the beaten path, Black Plague offers an uncompromising encounter with Joshua Tree’s bold terrain. It’s a climb that asks for respect for rock and technique in equal measure, setting the scene for a memorable adventure on one of California’s most iconic climbing landscapes.
The route’s chimney and offwidth sections can harbor loose rock; approach each placement with care. The gear anchor is dependable but situated on exposed terrain—always double-check your setup. Heat exposure is a risk during summer afternoons, and the rappel descent demands attention to footing and rope management.
Start early or late to avoid desert midday heat and take advantage of afternoon shade on the northwest-facing wall.
Wear sturdy shoes for the rocky approach trail from the Lost Horse trailhead.
Bring plenty of water and sun protection; the desert environment is unforgiving.
Be cautious on the rappel descent—watch for loose rock and secure all anchors fully.
Bring trad gear up to 5 inches for secure placements. The anchor is gear-based and reliable but exposed, so double-check your setup before committing.
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