HomeClimbingBlack Magic Poodle

Black Magic Poodle: Sport Climbing on Coyote Crag’s Central Pinnacles

Big Bear Lake, California United States
sport climbing
bulge crux
single pitch
pump finish
granite
North Big Bear
Length: 70 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Black Magic Poodle
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Black Magic Poodle is a spirited single-pitch sport climb on Coyote Crag’s Central Pinnacles. It weaves stemming, precise face moves, and a bulge that separates novices from the bold, all anchored by solid bolts and a steeper finish that tests endurance."

Black Magic Poodle: Sport Climbing on Coyote Crag’s Central Pinnacles

Black Magic Poodle offers a dynamic introduction to the rugged rock faces of Coyote Crag, situated within the striking Central Pinnacles of the Holcomb Valley area. This 70-foot single-pitch sport route challenges climbers with a blend of stemming, precise handholds, and a bulging crux that demands both technique and resolve. From the start, you engage the wall with a stem that requires deliberate foot placement, forcing you to read the rock’s natural textures as you reach out rightward for solid holds. Pulling onto the face, the climbing shifts from sustained stemming to an engaging sequence along an incut bulge. Tackling the bulge directly tests your core and reach, while veering slightly left softens the effort, making it approachable but still engaging. Above this, the route unfolds into a well-protected face section where the quality of the holds shines, guiding you upward with confidence. The finish ramps into a steeper, pumpier stretch demanding controlled power on excellent incut holds before arriving at the bolted anchor where the angle eases.

This climb thrives on diversity—combining balance-intensive stemming, subtle face moves, and a finish that secures your endurance. It stands as a practical yet exciting option for climbers looking to sharpen sport skills in a setting that’s rugged but accessible. With eight bolts protecting the line, the route offers reliable gear placements that let you focus on movement and flow.

Situated in the San Bernardino Mountains near Big Bear Lake, the Central Pinnacles provide a dramatic backdrop, rugged and raw. The rock is solid granite with a texture that invites both friction and confident holds—the ideal playground for climbers refining technique and strength. Approach trails wind through sparse pinyon pines and scrub, with the occasional rush of mountain breeze carrying scents of chaparral.

Seasonal timing plays a key role here; the wall faces south-southeast, catching generous sun throughout the day but offering shade in the late afternoon—perfect for climbing in spring and fall. Summer climbs require early starts to beat the heat, given the exposed terrain.

Black Magic Poodle demands a moderate level of fitness and skill but welcomes those stepping up from beginner routes to start testing their ability on bulges and technical face climbing. Expect a few tricky moves low on the route where footwork and body tension come into play and a pumpy finish that will leave arms feeling the effort but poised for success.

For descent, a convenient bolted anchor at the top allows a straightforward rappel back to the base—quick, safe, and efficient for busy days with multiple climbs on the agenda.

Anyone planning a trip here will want solid climbing shoes with good edging ability and hands prepared for the textured granite. Hydration is key; there’s no water on approach, and the sun can be unrelenting during warmer months. Bringing layered clothing is wise to handle shifting mountain conditions. Arriving early sets you up to enjoy cooler temperatures and fewer crowds.

With 140 climbers' endorsements averaging 2.7 stars, Black Magic Poodle occupies a spot as a solid local route that balances approachable thrills with climbing that keeps you thinking. It’s inviting for travelers who want a memorable day climbing in Big Bear’s less traveled corners, where the rock is honest, and the moves are rewarding.

Climber Safety

Watch footing carefully on the stemming start, as precise placement is vital. The rock is solid, but the bulge and steeper finish require focus to avoid fatigue. Rappelling from the bolted anchor is straightforward but double-check knots and anchors in this moderately remote setting.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length70 feet

Local Tips

Approach early to avoid afternoon heat, especially in summer.

Wear shoes with strong edging to navigate stemming and face holds effectively.

Bring plenty of water—no reliable sources near the trailhead.

Use the bolted anchor for a safe and quick rappel descent.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.9
Quality
Consensus:Though rated 5.9, Black Magic Poodle feels firm through its trickier stemming start and bulge challenge, with a pumpy upper section adding sustained effort. Compared to other Coyote Crag climbs, it offers a balanced test without hidden surprises, making it approachable for climbers stepping up from beginner terrain but still rewarding for experienced sport climbers.

Gear Requirements

The route is protected by eight bolts with a bolted anchor at the top, providing secure protection for the sustained moves and bulge crux.

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Tags

sport climbing
bulge crux
single pitch
pump finish
granite
North Big Bear