"Black Hole Sun delivers a short, focused climbing experience on Shelf Road’s vertical brown walls. With its delicate footwork and pocketed handholds, this 40-foot sport route offers a crisp technical challenge topped off with straightforward protection and a smooth rappel descent."
Located within the rugged confines of The Bank at Shelf Road near Canon City, Colorado, Black Hole Sun offers climbers a focused burst of vertical sport climbing packed into a brief 40-foot pitch. This route carves a direct line up a steep brown wall that commands precision and calm. Right from the start, your fingers find comfort in solid pockets and sharp crimps that guide you towards the initial clip. The crux demands subtle footwork and steady hands as you navigate a slight bulge that tests balance more than outright power, forcing climbers to engage delicacy and control over brute strength. Beyond this technical section, the wall eases into slightly less demanding terrain, though the holds remain often small and require cautious touches, keeping your focus intact until you reach the two-bolt anchor. This anchor, shared with the adjacent Razor Burn route, sits just beneath an imposing roof that hints at the area's rugged character. Descending is straightforward with a rappel down the bolted anchor.
The Bank area is a known hotspot for climbers looking to pry off bold movements on solid rock while appreciating Colorado’s distinct sandstone textures. The route’s short length makes it an excellent warm-up or a quick session for those eager to squeeze climbing into a day filled with other adventures. The approach to Black Hole Sun is simple compared to Shelf Road’s more remote sectors; a brief hike leaves you with views of sprawling cliffs and open sky, feeling connected to the rawness of this climbing region. Be ready for sun exposure throughout the climb, especially in warmer months, as the brown wall absorbs heat and radiates it back to your skin and fingers.
Protection is straightforward and minimal—a couple of bolts and a secure two-bolt anchor make the setup quick and reassuring. For climbers, Black Hole Sun represents an accessible challenge with its 5.9- rating, suitable for those looking to sharpen technical skills like precise foot placements and crimpy hand sequences. Despite its moderate grade, the route’s subtle demands maintain an engaging focus where body positioning and calm discipline become the deciding factors on progression.
In preparation, climbers should pay attention to shoe choice, balancing sensitivity and grip for those delicate foot smears. Hydration and sun protection are smart considerations, especially in mid-summer, since shade is limited here. Timing your trip in the shoulder seasons can offer more comfortable temperatures and a quieter experience.
In short, Black Hole Sun stands as a crisp, practical introduction or tune-up in Shelf Road’s diverse climbing offerings, inviting climbers to confront technical details on good rock with reliable protection and a swift descent path. It’s a concise yet complete climbing experience under the Colorado sun.
While the protection is solid, the route’s delicate footwork on slabby sections requires careful attention to prevent slips. The rappel anchors are reliable but verify your gear and set up redundancies to guard against accidental drops or rope twists in the narrow descent corridor.
Start early to avoid the intense sun on the brown wall in summer.
Wear climbing shoes with a stiff sole to support delicate foot placements.
Carry plenty of water—the area offers little shade or natural water sources.
Rappel carefully; ensure your rappel device is doubled up and anchors checked.
Black Hole Sun is equipped with two bolts along the route and finishes at a two-bolt anchor shared with Razor Burn. Standard sport climbing gear suffices; quickdraws for the bolts and a rappel device for descent complete the setup.
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