"Black Groove offers a single-pitch trad climb through a broad, black-hued groove in Boulder Canyon. It’s an enjoyable 5.9 route prized for its low-angled moves and easy protection, perfect for those craving a relaxed but engaging climb in a quiet Colorado setting."
Tucked across from the prominent Cenotaph area in Boulder Canyon, Black Groove quietly carves a line up a shadowed, low-angled black groove that captures the subtle charm of classic trad climbing. This route may fly under the radar, but it offers a straightforward and satisfying 110-foot pitch that rewards careful movement on clean rock. The groove itself, broad and angled just enough, invites climbers to engage with the rock’s natural features without demanding high-end technical skill—making it a solid pick for those seeking a reliable 5.9 challenge in a peaceful setting.
The approach to Black Groove is gentle and direct, sliding into the rhythm of Boulder Canyon’s landscape, flanked by towering walls and open skies. Around you, the rock holds a muted black sheen, contrasting with lighter stone nearby and serving both as a visual anchor and a tactile guide up the line. The rock texture is coarse enough for secure holds, yet the low angle invites relaxed but attentive footwork.
Protection is minimal but sufficient; this route was never bolted, and traditional gear placements are straightforward though best suited for toproping. Most climbers rely on a top rope setup here to savor the pitch safely and smoothly. The moderate angle combined with sound rock and simple moves creates an enjoyable experience without the sting of hard cruxes. This lack of steep, overhanging terrain allows the natural quiet of the canyon to wrap around you—wind whispering through pines and distant birds tracing arcs overhead.
While it’s not a bustling hotspot, Black Groove maintains a subtle allure for climbers curious about Boulder Canyon’s unsung lines. Its unobtrusive style means it can be climbed without disturbance, perfect for early morning ascents when sunlight brushes the surrounding ridges and warms the rock. Staying mindful not to bolt preserves the route’s traditional character, encouraging climbers to respect its old-school roots.
This climb fits neatly into a day of cragging in Boulder Canyon. With only one pitch to manage, it makes a solid choice for a warm-up or cool-down on a day exploring the canyon’s more demanding walls. Essential gear includes a light trad rack and strong shoes to match the rock’s texture; hydration is key, as shade is sparse along the groove itself and the sun can build quickly in warmer months.
Less about flash and more about steady enjoyment, Black Groove invites climbers to experience a piece of Colorado’s climbing history with practical gear, measured steps, and a calm embrace of the outdoors. Whether you’re mapping out a full day in Boulder Canyon or just after a straightforward trad line, this route offers an approachable challenge framed by striking Colorado scenery and the steady pulse of nature.
While the rock is generally solid, the route’s lack of fixed anchors means climbers should be diligent with gear placement and top rope setup. The approach to the base is straightforward but expect some loose rock near the start—wear a helmet and stay aware.
Best climbed early in the day to avoid direct sun on the groove.
Bring a light trad rack focusing on small to medium cams for protection.
Shoes with good edging ability will help navigate the low-angled slab.
Respect the no-bolt ethic to keep the route’s traditional character intact.
Top rope is recommended here for safety and ease, as the route was never bolted. Minimal trad protection is possible but requires solid placements in the groove's natural features.
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