HomeClimbingBlack Dihedral

Black Dihedral at Shelf Road: A Classic Trad Climb in Canon City

Canon City, Colorado United States
trad
crack climb
single pitch
desert sandstone
moderate grade
wide cracks
Length: 70 ft
Type: Trad
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
Black Dihedral
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"Black Dihedral offers a focused single pitch trad climb on a stark black corner, rewarding climbers with solid crack moves and a confident finish atop Shelf Road’s striking sandstone walls. Ideal for trad enthusiasts seeking an accessible yet technical challenge near Canon City."

Black Dihedral at Shelf Road: A Classic Trad Climb in Canon City

Harness the steady rhythm of your hands moving along the black corner known as Black Dihedral, a staple trad climb tucked into the rugged expanse of Shelf Road near Canon City, Colorado. This route offers a single, engaging pitch of 70 feet that blends straightforward crack climbing with subtle variations in terrain, giving climbers both challenge and flow. The climb begins at the base of a solitary detached pillar, a dark vertical feature that rises sharply against the sandstone cliffs. From here, you find yourself drawn into the widening crack that stretches overhead, which opens progressively, drawing your attention and focus upward. The blackened rock holds a distinct texture that provides reliable friction, pushing climbers to engage technique over brute force. As you ascend, the crack broadens, requiring a mix of hand jams and finger locks, with a wider section near the top where larger pro placements and careful footwork become essential.

Strategically placed protection is key along this climb. A standard rack suffices for most of the route, but veteran climbers advise bringing larger cams like a #4 and #5. These bigger pieces offer confidence in the wider groove toward the summit, helping to steady nerves before topping out. Once you reach the anchor, options abound. You can either walk off the top along the ledge or traverse right to the anchor shared with the neighboring climb, “Corner Pockets.” This descent offers flexibility and a gentle conclusion to the climb, rewarding your efforts with an easy and direct exit.

Shelf Road itself is a vibrant climbing destination, sitting within the shifting sandstone walls that bear the traces of wind and time. The canyon’s quiet corridors carry sounds of the wind brushing past, leaves rustling softly below, and the occasional call of distant birds. Here, the rock feels alive, daring you onward with its imperfections and natural holds. The black corner stands distinct amid other climbs, a climb of approachable complexity that invites both novices looking to sharpen their crack climbing skills and seasoned trad climbers who appreciate clean, precise moves.

Preparation for Black Dihedral means arriving with solid crack technique and a rack tuned to include medium and large cams. The approach to the base is manageable—a short walk from the nearest parking area on Shelf Road. The trail is well-worn but can be uneven in places, so solid hiking shoes are recommended. Spring through fall offers the best climbing windows, as winter can bring slick conditions and icy patches. Climbing midday ensures the wall is warmed by the sun, softening the rock’s texture under your fingers.

This route also benefits from moderate traffic, indicated by an average star rating of two from ten votes, making it a quieter option for those who prefer the solace of less crowded climbs. Its moderate 5.8 rating is approachable but will require thoughtful move sequences and steady protection placement. Whether you’re seeking to build your trad confidence or simply enjoy a focused day on quality crack climbing with views of the Colorado high desert, Black Dihedral deserves a spot on your Shelf Road itinerary.

Climber Safety

The wider section near the top requires careful protection; gear can be tricky if you’re not prepared with larger cams. Additionally, tread cautiously on the descent ledge to avoid unstable footing. Seasonal weather may make the rock slick, so plan accordingly.

Route Details

TypeTrad
Pitches1
Length70 feet

Local Tips

Approach trail is short but uneven; wear sturdy hiking shoes.

Climb best in spring through fall to avoid icy or slick rock conditions.

Start climbs midday when the sun warms the black corner for better friction.

After the ascent, descend by walking off or traversing to the adjacent Corner Pockets anchor.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating on Black Dihedral feels appropriately measured for this style of crack climbing. While technically straightforward, the widening crack near the top demands precise gear placements and thoughtful footwork, adding mental weight to a route that otherwise flows well. Climbers familiar with Shelf Road’s other moderate crack climbs will find this route comfortably challenging without overstating its grade.

Gear Requirements

Bring a standard rack including cams ranging from small to medium sizes. Adding a #4 and #5 cam is highly recommended for the wider section near the top to secure confident placements and ease the mental strain on challenging moves.

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Tags

trad
crack climb
single pitch
desert sandstone
moderate grade
wide cracks