"Black and White offers a solid three-pitch trad climbing challenge in Quebec’s Laurentians. With technical crack sequences and bolted belays, it’s a route that rewards steady gear work and sharp movement along granite faces bathed in morning light."
Black and White stands out as a rewarding trad climb carved into the rugged walls of the Laurentian Mountains in Quebec. This three-pitch route, stretching over 265 feet, offers a compelling blend of technical challenges and scenic variety, perfect for climbers looking to test their gear skills and movement on solid yet demanding granite. From the base, the rocky face rises confidently, its cracks and corners daring you to trust your placements and focus on every move. The route begins with a moderate 5.9 pitch that warms your limbs and eyes to position, a chance to navigate a series of varied cracks that require precise finger and hand jams. Linking the first two pitches is often preferred to maintain flow, moving into the heart of the climb where the gradient steepens and the rating jumps to a sustained 5.10+ section. Here, steady footwork and controlled breathing get you through a technical sequence that challenges balance and strength, framed by sweeping views of the Laurentians’ forested horizon. The final pitch eases slightly to 5.10, yet remains engaging with technical face moves and placements that keep protection management at the forefront. Protection ranges from small nuts to large cams (up to Camalot #4), giving you confidence where the rock sometimes demands precise gear choice over brute force. Bolted belays with rappel chains provide secure anchors between pitches, easing transitions and offering moments to soak in the environment. Access to the climb is straightforward via the Club Sandwich approach, a well-marked trail that cuts through dense pine and fir, leading to a base where you can hear the subtle rustling of the forest and the distant whisper of a small river below. This approach rewards you with tactile forest floor textures underfoot and the fresh scent of resin and earth, setting a grounded tone before the vertical challenge. Given the Laurentians’ variable weather, early morning starts are best to avoid afternoon warmth that can make granite slick with sweat or rain. The wall faces east-northeast and enjoys steady sunlight in the morning, shifting to cooling shade as midday clears the canopy’s heat, making the timing crucial for optimal grip and comfort. Descending via rap chains requires careful attention—anchors are solid, but ropes can tangle quickly if patience lapses amid tired fingers. Keeping a tidy haul and communication with partners is key. Whether you’re honing gear placements or savoring the openness of Quebec’s climbing reserves, Black and White delivers an experience that balances rigorous climbing with the rewards of wide mountain views and a deep connection to the natural granite face. Prepare well, stay aware, and the route reveals itself as a climb that tests both skill and spirit.
Watch your rope management during rappels; anchors are secure, but tangled ropes near ledges could complicate your descent. Also, keep an eye on weather shifts, as magnet granite gets slick when wet.
Start early to catch cooler morning temperatures and avoid slick rock.
Link the first two pitches for better rhythm and efficiency on the climb.
Check for weather as afternoon thunderstorms can make the granite hazardous.
Stay organized when rapping; rope tangles are a common snag on the descent.
Protection demands a rack ranging from nuts up to Camalot #4. Belays are equipped with bolted rap chains, providing reliable anchors at each pitch end.
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