HomeClimbingBJ Returns

BJ Returns at Lightning Bolt Crag

Truckee, California United States
chimney
traverse
sport climbing
Lake Tahoe
single pitch
bolt protected
moderate difficulty
Length: 100 ft
Type: Sport
Stars
Pitches
1
Location
BJ Returns
Aspect
South Facing

Overview

"BJ Returns offers a gripping 100-foot single pitch climb at Lightning Bolt Crag, blending steady chimney moves with a dynamic traverse. Named for Brad Johnson’s remarkable comeback, this route delivers solid protection and inspiring views just outside Lake Tahoe."

BJ Returns at Lightning Bolt Crag

BJ Returns is a sharp reminder of resilience and grit, a sport climb carved into the rugged heart of Lightning Bolt Crag in California’s Lake Tahoe region. This route honors Brad Johnson, whose journey back from a life-shifting crash and wildfire devastation fuels every move here. From the first step inside an approachable chimney, the climb eases you into the rhythm before challenging you with a lively traverse that demands balance and focus. The rock offers solid texture under your hands, its granite face unyielding yet welcoming, catching the sunlight as you ascend.

At 100 feet, this single-pitch line strikes a perfect balance between approachable and rewarding. Twelve well-placed bolts and a handful of Mussy hooks provide confident protection, allowing climbers to concentrate on flow and technique without wrestling uncertainty. The climb steps through varied moves — the chimney section offers a quiet interlude of steady jams and chimney smears, while the traverse tests footwork and body positioning, coaxing you along a horizontal track that feels alive with energy.

Lunch breaks on the ledge offer sweeping views of the I-80 corridor and distant Tahoe peaks, with dry pine needles underfoot and the occasional whisper of wind threading through the pines. This spot rewards both your effort and patience with a glimpse into the vast landscape beyond, grounding you in the present and the climb’s story.

Getting here requires a straightforward approach from the main parking area near The Emeralds, crossing mixed terrain that invites awareness but demands no special skills. The trail is well-marked, making the journey to the base an accessible part of the experience. Bring sturdy shoes to handle the small, loose gravel patches, and plan climbs for cooler parts of the day, as the southern-facing wall catches the sun by midday, heating the rock.

Whether you’re returning to the area or seeking a climb that offers more than just holds, BJ Returns stands out as an honest line, marked by both history and quality. It encourages respect—not only for the wall but for the personal journeys that inspire those who build and climb here. A solid choice for sport climbers looking to balance technical moves with a narrative of comeback and determination.

Climber Safety

While protection is reliable, the Mussy hooks require cautious clipping to avoid potential slips. The chimney’s confined space may challenge those unused to off-width style moves. Watch out for sun exposure on warmer days, which can heat the rock surface and affect grip.

Route Details

TypeSport
Pitches1
Length100 feet

Local Tips

Start early to enjoy cooler temperatures on this south-facing wall.

Wear shoes with sticky rubber to handle the mix of chimney friction and traverse edging.

Scout the stand at the base to visualize the transition from chimney to traverse.

Approach trail is moderate; expect some loose gravel - trekking poles might help.

Route Rating

Difficulty
5.8
Quality
Consensus:The 5.8 rating feels fair, with a crux located on the traverse section where balance and footwork become essential. The chimney portion is comfortable but demands precise technique that elevates the challenge slightly. Compared to nearby routes, BJ Returns rides the line between beginner-friendly and a solid moderate offering, making it a useful benchmark climb.

Gear Requirements

The climb is secured with 12 bolts and supplemented by Mussy hooks, offering dependable protection throughout the 100-foot ascent. Bring a standard sport rack and be ready to clip often on the traverse.

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Tags

chimney
traverse
sport climbing
Lake Tahoe
single pitch
bolt protected
moderate difficulty